I've decided to branch out on my own and paint my cars. I am not a neophyte as I've just finished a friends Midget and it looks like a 10,000 paint job. But I have completely exhausted all efforts to paint the hood of a 2003 Lexus Es300 and I need expert advice from everyone here because I know that you all all experts in some way, shape or form.

Victim: 2003 Lexus ES 300
Color: Black Onyx
Subject: hood
Paint used: Base Omni mid grade
Clear: Matrix high grade
Sprayer: Devilbiss 430 or something like that
Technique:
Pressure at gun: 29psi for base X 3 coats and 30 Clear X 3 coats
Temperature: 75% low humidity
Location in garage with floor wet down the night before and in the a.m.
Distance for surface of hood: 10-12 inches and 0 degree angle gun to hood.
Speed roughly low to mid stroke overlapping wet areas by 75%.
Med reducer for indicated weather
Subsequent times between base and clear about 45 minutes each coat
This is my fifth attempt at a cost of over a thousand dollars in materials and1.5 years time.
Hand sand with 1500 then 2000 until matte finish and little to no orange peel.
Buffer at 1000 with Meguires rubbing compound, followed by Meguires 105 and 205 in proper order using orange and black pad.

The issue: By the time I get to where the sand marks are out and the polish shows I see the primer underneath. Any less of a polish and it would have presented a bad finish meaning when I get to the sweet spot the primer comes thru. Please help. I have attached a picture. Thank you all in advance

Okay, so you've explained your finishing process. What is your prep. process??? Did you go to bare metal on this? If that's peaks of primer showing through where you cut it I would think not enough base/clear on there for the cut and buff. Honestly, from even in my rookie days I've never had a paint surface do that to me........
Hmmmmm....10 to 12 inches from the surface?????

DarrelK wrote:Okay, so you've explained your finishing process. What is your prep. process??? Did you go to bare metal on this? If that's peaks of primer showing through where you cut it I would think not enough base/clear on there for the cut and buff. Honestly, from even in my rookie days I've never had a paint surface do that to me........
Hmmmmm....10 to 12 inches from the surface?????

Prep with primer and sanded smooth 3 coats. In the beginning after my second attempt I had decided to take it down to bare metal then prime. Same result.
I also meant to say 6-8 inches.

solvent popped primer
solvent pop clear

you spraying base right over your primer ?

maxedout1 wrote:

DarrelK wrote:Okay, so you've explained your finishing process. What is your prep. process??? Did you go to bare metal on this? If that's peaks of primer showing through where you cut it I would think not enough base/clear on there for the cut and buff. Honestly, from even in my rookie days I've never had a paint surface do that to me........
Hmmmmm....10 to 12 inches from the surface?????

Prep with primer and sanded smooth 3 coats. In the beginning after my second attempt I had decided to take it down to bare metal then prime. Same result.
I also meant to say 6-8 inches.

Have you got a "before" picture you can post?
This isn't my area so I'm not going to offer any opinions right or wrong, just questioning what I have read, further a gain in explanation I can wrap my head around.
I see pimples or dimples? Why that not smears and streaks?
With a previous mention of a orange peel effect, with the degree of cut, buff polish mentioned, how does that surface appearance get explained? Is it the result of an orange peel effect in the primer that wasn't completely sanded smooth?
It just seems to me that the primer surface shows peaks not flat lands and I'm wondering why?

Thank you Painter Dave. That explains it nicely.

Man, that's some of the worst pop I've seen in awhile........makes sense though.....

PainterDave wrote:solvent popped primer
solvent pop clear

you spraying base right over your primer ?

First time yes over primer and second time over base.
Are you saying this is solvent pop?
If so what can I do to avoid another costly mistake?
Im telling ya I am downright vexed over this.
This will be the sixth time.

noelc wrote:

maxedout1 wrote:

DarrelK wrote:Okay, so you've explained your finishing process. What is your prep. process??? Did you go to bare metal on this? If that's peaks of primer showing through where you cut it I would think not enough base/clear on there for the cut and buff. Honestly, from even in my rookie days I've never had a paint surface do that to me........
Hmmmmm....10 to 12 inches from the surface?????

Prep with primer and sanded smooth 3 coats. In the beginning after my second attempt I had decided to take it down to bare metal then prime. Same result.
I also meant to say 6-8 inches.

Have you got a "before" picture you can post?
This isn't my area so I'm not going to offer any opinions right or wrong, just questioning what I have read, further a gain in explanation I can wrap my head around.
I see pimples or dimples? Why that not smears and streaks?
With a previous mention of a orange peel effect, with the degree of cut, buff polish mentioned, how does that surface appearance get explained? Is it the result of an orange peel effect in the primer that wasn't completely sanded smooth?
It just seems to me that the primer surface shows peaks not flat lands and I'm wondering why?

Thank you Painter Dave. That explains it nicely.

Unfortunately I do not.

SOLVENT POPPING
(Boiling, Blowing)
Small bubbles, pinholes or crater-like openings in or on the paint film.
____________________________________________________________________________
CAUSE_____________________________________________________
(A) Liquid solvent (thinners/reducers) becomes "trapped" in the paint film when the surface layer skins over too quickly, preventing their evaporation into the atmosphere. Solvents that vaporize within the paint film leave bubbles, pinholes or craters as they push through and "pop" the surface. Solvents can be trapped due to:
(1) Thinner/reducer evaporating too fast for spraying conditions;
(2) Inadequate flash time between coats;
(3) Excessive film thickness or "piling on" of heavy/wet coats;
(4) Too much air movement causing surface to "skin over" before solvents evaporate;
(5) Excessive purge/flash time before force drying.

REPAIR _________________________________________
(1) Allow finish to thoroughly dry/cure, sand smooth and refinish. Inspect surface
carefully to ensure all craters have been removed.
(2) Severe popping will require removal of the affected film. Prime, seal and recoat,
as necessary.

PREVENTION______________________________________________
(A) Select recommended thinner/reducer based on temperature, humidity, air movement and size of repair;
(B) Allow for proper flash time between coats.
(C) Avoid "piling on" or double wet coats.
(D) Restrict air movement over the surface being painted.
(E) Avoid extended purge/flash time before force drying.

maxedout1 wrote:A) Liquid solvent (thinners/reducers) becomes "trapped" in the paint film when the surface layer skins over too quickly, preventing their evaporation into the atmosphere. Solvents that vaporize within the paint film leave bubbles, pinholes or craters as they push through and "pop" the surface. Solvents can be trapped due to:
(1) Thinner/reducer evaporating too fast for spraying conditions;
(2) Inadequate flash time between coats;
(3) Excessive film thickness or "piling on" of heavy/wet coats;
(4) Too much air movement causing surface to "skin over" before solvents evaporate;
(5) Excessive purge/flash time before force drying.

This looks promising but I have a few questions.
What do you recommend for a primer and reducer+base paint for 70 to 75 degree Arizona temps

A) Liquid solvent (thinners/reducers) becomes "trapped" in the paint film when the surface layer skins over too quickly, preventing their evaporation into the atmosphere. Solvents that vaporize within the paint film leave bubbles, pinholes or craters as they push through and "pop" the surface. Solvents can be trapped due to:
(1) Thinner/reducer evaporating too fast for spraying conditions;
How do I stop this?
(2) Inadequate flash time between coats;
45 minutes between coats
(3) Excessive film thickness or "piling on" of heavy/wet coats;
Not piled on wet Im almost positive
(4) Too much air movement causing surface to "skin over" before solvents evaporate;
The garage door was closed
(5) Excessive purge/flash time before force drying.
I do not force dry at all.