1000.00 to paint a hood?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 5:46 pm
badsix wrote::goodpost: you got some excilent advice form ALL above. one thing I would add is be careful when you apply your base. don't pour it on wet like one would do with a single stage material like a urethane. base needs to go on in light med coats. it normally flashes quickly and if applied to heavy you stand the risk of the solvent pop the base skins over with a dry layer and wont let the solvents out.

I tried to search for a post by the Old DuPont Guy that showed how it should look on your first, second, and third coats but could not find it. it would be a good show and tell.
Jay D.

I've created a numbered and sequential checklist of all your suggestions and I will post the final results which I'm sure are going to be near perfect now.



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 5:47 pm
badsix wrote:Does anyone have pictures showing what the first second and third coats should look like. I think it would very helpful to first time painters or painters that are using the base coat and having problems. by applying the base to heavy like they would other products like clear, urethane color or s/s enamels. base is just a different animal from what some people are use to.
Jay D.


Eagerly awaiting.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 7:41 pm
badsix wrote:Does anyone have pictures showing what the first second and third coats should look like. I think it would very helpful to first time painters or painters that are using the base coat and having problems. by applying the base to heavy like they would other products like clear, urethane color or s/s enamels. base is just a different animal from what some people are use to.
Jay D.


Those application valuations (light coat, medium wet coat, rabbit fur coat) have been one of the hardest things for me to learn. I have screwed up a lot of clears by trying to put on the first "light coat" and ending up with peel that stayed with the additional coats. I have also screwed up a lot of BCs by NOT allowing enough flash time - "it's been 15 minutes, well 12 1/2 minutes close enough". Though I have gotten real good at sanding and I think that 3M should be sending me a t-shirt or a trip to Hawaii with all the sandpaper that I have purchased.

I don't think that pictures can really capture what the differences really look like. Having someone there next to you that knows (not your buddy who watched two YouTube videos) is invaluable, but just not an option for most of us. I tried to find some kind of "Paint gun fundamentals for rookie hacks" class but never did find one.

What I did find was this forum and just made a bunch of mistakes and posted them asking questions - HUGE help. I also ended up taking a lowrider style panel paint class and I was definitely the most inexperienced, but I picked up a lot just watching these guys including my gun distance (was too far away).

But again, I don't think that photos can really capture the difference between proper amounts of BC or CC applications.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 7:50 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:...I use slow activator and slow reducer all year long. In the summer I may even use some retarder to slow things down.

...Make sure your gun is adjusted properly by using masking paper taped to the wall. Hold the trigger full open and set your air pressure at the gun. The with your gun loaded with properly reduced paint hold it it about 6" from the paper and pull the trigger full open for 1 second. (Say 1/1000 and let go.) Carefully inspect your pattern. It should be shaped similar to a cigar with full coverage but no runs. The droplets should be fine and consistent throughout the pattern. If too wet, turn your fluid knob in a 1/2 turn and try again. If droplets are too big, try increasing your air pressure a bit.

Once you get a good pattern, write down the PSI and the fluid knob settings. (Count the turns until it is full closed.)

When spraying keep a consistent distance, angle to panel and speed. Overlap should be at least 50%. You achieve this by having your spray nozzle centered on the edge of your last pass.

Flash times listed on the tech sheet for your products should be considered minimums. If it says wait 15 minutes between coats then do at least that. Use a clock, watch or phone but don't trust your instincts. If you look at the paint as it is flashing you will see spots that look wetter than others and a careful eye will see the vapors leaving the paint. Wait until there are no wet areas left and then shoot your next coat of base and repeat.

When you get ready to shoot your clear coat, the gun settings will be the same for the fluid knob but increase your air pressure at the gun. Use the masking paper as before and you should be able to get a nice pattern by simply upping the pressure. It may be 6 PSI or more higher than for your base coat.

With the clear you want to let it flash until you can touch an area on the masking tape and not have the clear stick to your glove or pull strings of clear when you remove it. When in doubt wait a little longer.

The tendency for most of us is to rush things. When you get in a hurry mistakes increase and problems show up. Stacking the build primer on without proper flash times will cause issues too.


This I have found VERY helpful. :goodpost:
Last edited by OldFatBald on Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 7:55 pm
if you could see the pictures that the Old DuPont Guy posted several years ago. then you would see what your first coat should look like, and how it should be put on. a picture is worth 1000 words.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 9:16 pm
Is it possible that for the Devilbiss FLG 670 I have the pressure set too high at 29 psi?
Many videos call for 10 psi at the gun regulator



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:04 am
i'm not sure what kind of problem your having but with 10# more air press. it could cause a drier spray but the main thing its going to do is waste a lot of paint in unnecessary over spray. gun distance is also critical. that number is just a starting point for your air press. you need to learn how to set up your gun for a particular spray job. I've always said load up that gun with some base if that's what your using and play with it. set the air to the recommended level and spray a couple passes on an old door or something. then open the fluid control and see what happens, then close it almost shut and see what happens. play with the fan adjustment to see what it does. turn your air press. down to a couple lbs. and see what that does, then turn it up 35-40 and see what that does. you need to learn what all those adjustments do.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:41 am
Hi there, that 10 PSI, was set by the EPA, and others to reduse the paint that goes into the air.
That 10 PSI is pressure inside the air horn.
The instructions for the gun will tell you the inlet pressure needed for the gun to have that 10 PSI at the tip of the gun when spraying.
Some where on the gun there should be the inlet pressure when the trigger is pulled back all the way. Of d luck. :goodjob:

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 10:37 am
rambrosi wrote:Is it possible that for the Devilbiss FLG 670 I have the pressure set too high at 29 psi?
Many videos call for 10 psi at the gun regulator


Depends on the cap you are using what the inlet pressure is supposed to be. Understand the PSI is not the critical thing here CFM is. An undersized compressor can put out the PSI requirements but not the corresponding CFM requirements. In this case the gun will only spray correctly for a short time.

The inlet PSI is measured at the gun with the trigger pulled wide open, this will get you the 10 PSI "at the cap" pressure.

If you have the HVLP set up then look at the #3 cap settings.


FinishLine® Gravity Feed Air Caps
Air Caps
#1 Air Cap

10.5" Air Cap PatternPrimers, base coats, clearcoats, single stage and low VOC

Inlet Pressure: Conventional #1

Air Flow: 9.9 CFM @ 40 PSI inlet

Tips: 1.3mm, 1.5 mm, 1.8 mm, 2.2 mm

Order No: 690000
#3 Air Cap

10.5" Air Cap PatternPrimers, base coats, clearcoats, single stage and low VOC

Inlet Pressure: HVLP #3

Air Flow: 13 CFM @23 PSI inlet

Tips: 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.8 mm, 2.2 mm

Order No: 690001
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:02 pm
badsix wrote:Does anyone have pictures showing what the first second and third coats should look like. I think it would very helpful to first time painters or painters that are using the base coat and having problems. by applying the base to heavy like they would other products like clear, urethane color or s/s enamels. base is just a different animal from what some people are use to.
Jay D.


Good idea, Jay.

Need a colour that is going over a different colour primer so the contrast shows. Tomorrow I'll be doing a Toyota red pearl which will have a grey primer. That one should show up in pictures better than the jobs I'm doing today which are dark grey over VS6 primer, white over VS1 and black over VS7.

I'll try to remember to take some pics. :happy:

Ed in sc. wrote:That 10 PSI is pressure inside the air horn.
The instructions for the gun will tell you the inlet pressure needed for the gun to have that 10 PSI at the tip of the gun when spraying.


Correct. Most TDS show recommended application pressures for Conventional and HVLP guns and refer to gun manufacturer for RP setups.

I don't use HVLP but have one gun that is a bit of a cross between HVLP and RP. It seems to work best at 28psi, which is also the pressure I use as a base point for almost every gun. Sometimes you need to make minor adjustments to compensate for paint thickness and occasionally a gun just seems happier at a higher or lower setting.

There really are no substitutes for test sprays on paper to see the pattern and spray out cards (especially ones with white/black backgrounds) to see what is needed to get full coverage. Using Value Shade primers calls for a slightly different approach since a lot less basecoat is usually needed.
Chris
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