NFT5 that would be great, I just think it would really help for some to see what the application looks like. if you can't I could probably do it. I don't have anything to spray until after new year but I could probably scrounge up an old door.
Jay D.
1000.00 to paint a hood?
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they say my name is Jay
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Bad before I attempt suicide again this weekend can you give me the names of a good paint and primer? |
just use your Omni buddy.
whatever happened to your hood was not any blame to the paint. cheaper paint vs the best paint dont matter really for what youre doing IMO if you do not apply either correct it will go south on you Experienced Trained Certified
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Dave's right, and what I use is probably going to be 2-3 times or more money. get the application down then start experimenting with other brands.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Roger that I'll post a pic soon. Thanks again for the valuable insight that you guys have provided. Long salute. |
I did. Here we go.... So, two of three jobs today were reds. First one a bar and guard from a Fiesta which was a bronze/copper red while the second was a door, quarter and cant rail on a Prado, done in the old favourite, 3R3 Barcelona Red. Spectro'd both and the Fiesta colour (didn't look at the name or paint code since they mean diddly squat on a Ford anyway) needed a bit of manual adjustment while the Toyota was a good, blendable match off the machine. Parts primed and ready for paint Weapon of choice with 1.3mm tip First coat. On this job I used the economy line Centari 610 basecoat. Same colours as the premium line but a bit thinner so usually needs three coats, rather than two. Much cheaper, though. Note how the coat is quite thin, no coverage. It's just something for the next coat to grab on to. Second coat. This covered better than I expected, which just proves how using the right shade of primer can help you. Third coat. Almost not necessary but I did a drop coat here to stand up all that copper and gold pearl. Clear coat gun. This one is 1.2mm since I used a speed clear which is MS. The aircap is awesome but speed clear goes off so quick that it doesn't really flow out and I didn't have time to use the slow thinner. "Get 'em out! TODAY!!!" Ready for clear. Note the surface is dull/flat. About 15 minutes flash time at around 25C in the booth. .... and cleared Now, the other job. Much nicer car so I used the premuim line Centari 6000 basecoat. This uses a lot more tinter, has a different binder and only 4:1 paint to thinner. So, a bit thicker. I used the same basecoat gun but opened up the fluid another 1/2 turn. The repair Masked up and ready I missed taking a shot of the panel in primer. I used PPG One Shot which is a 1K primer because it's good and dries fast - today ready to sand in 15 minutes. Wet sanded P800. First coat. Axalta recommend 1 1/2 coats with this basecoat, so first coat is, again, quite thin. Not going for coverage. Second coat. Applied as full, medium wet. Coverage achieved but I went back later and extended the blends and did a drop coat. This is usually a good idea with metallics/pearls. Cleared. Again I used the speed clear, but this time in a with the fluid opened up to 3 turns to get a wetter finish. Gun at 150mm max from panel allows quite quick application and gives a super flat finish. Nice. Chris
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Great pics.
Glad you included the blend photos as well. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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I just like seeing "good" production work. I mean, hobbyists, we can dink around with stuff till we get right. I have a high level of respect for you guys that have to crank out this level of work day after day......
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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THANKS should make that a sticky
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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