Have 3 or 4 small rust spots to repair on old land rover.. wielding not an option (no equip and wanting to avoid cost)
Looking at Lord adhesives but the gun for a one time (4 spots) is also a stupid expense..

I have found CWC 910 construction adhesive for re barb applications from a friend who also has a gun...!!! Visit to CWC (Carter Watson Construction) found even cheaper metal to metal adhesive that is 2 parts in one tube ...

My questions...
1) any reason this is not a good option for a NON-Structural body repair?
2) has anyone used adhesives like construction stuff for automotive?

Thanks for any info!

So just to be clear here....you are doing panel bonding here, right? If so I would be very concerned about using a bonding agent that is not designed for automotive use. Panels take a lot of heat, vibrations. Construction adhesives bond stuff that basically doesn't move and is rarely exposed to heat.
How about a panel bonding adhesive that just uses a simple caulk gun.....
https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-Fibergl ... el+bonding
If you go that route just make sure you read the reviews on that page about the preferable type of caulk gun that should work. As a neighbor of mine found out....is truly is about the thrust ratio of the caulk gun when getting that stuff out of the tube. Personally, I just had so much panel bonding to do when hacking up kit cars that I bought the Fusor gun.

yes - two spots are on the fender liner so i will just epoxy a small 20 gauge piece about 1 inch by 2 or 3 long.. the other spot is in the door sill and will be the same except I will dress it out with bondo and paint it as needed.
Your suggested product looks like the best choice so please let me know if a caulk gun will cause a failure like your friend and how to avoid that.

Thank you very much!

Something about getting older and experiencing different things. I've played a bit with panel adhesives and can attest they have a time and place to be used and with exceptional results when used properly.
Not to say I have however used them properly, just that I have used them.




I was looking for cheap, quick and good to clean up pocked marked rust blisters that had been left too long on my old van. As well, bottom door rot and rocker panel rust. Granted, I did grind clean all surfaces, flanged the body to accept a flush fit to the patches and panels in doing so, and held it all together with screws until it set at which point the screws were removed and hole filled with more adhesive.

Plans for filler and a repaint have yet to happen but maybe one day it will? Untill that time I can honestly say a small crack in the top of the lower rocker replacement did occur after a hard drive on some ruff roads, just behind the drivers door. My quick fix was a bit of cleaning, a small reapplication and this time I left a screw in but ground the head off as both panels were threaded tight from the screw into the flanged surface.

One thing I didn't do was any welding. The goal was to play with the product, see what the product could do, had for adhesion, and I also did some test samples to see what kind of abuse it would take hammering and beating on it to try a separate the panels stuck together. I was left impressed. Have I given up on welding, no. But I see better where to use them, when to use them and how to use them. Do your research on the product you intend to use, a building construction grade metal to metal product is not necessarily the best product. You will discover that in using an automotive or air craft panel adhesives tensile strengths of 100,000 psi are obtainable. Try pulling that apart?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBPM8FBep4I

Rustrover, my neighbor didn't really have a failure with his application he just tried using too good of a caulk gun I guess so it was being a bear to get out of the tube. He substituted one of his el cheapo guns and said it worked fine. Another guy at a car show said he just laid the tube out in the sun for an hour or so and that made it flow better. You could probably just put the tube in a zip loc bag and soak it in a sink of warm water to get it to flow. I soak aerosol cans in warm water when I've got critical work to do with them. It can increase can pressure by 10 psi or so resulting in much better atomization.

fusor work much better when warm.
Jay D.

Might check and see if you can borrow the applicator gun form a local jobber.

I have one but, my jobber also has a loaner. I think most in my area do.
Jay D.

lots of great info - thanks to all..
Looking like a single tube of fuson (equivalent) with 2 parts in it for 41 bucks will be the best choice. Just gotta wait till warmer weather or sneak it into the garage for a night.

I can see now how the construction stuff would be a mistake due to setting up too stiff for auto applications. kinda like JB Wield - it would be great till it breaks off.

Thanks again to all!