Hello people.

My new to me truck has many rock chips on the front. I know the correct way to repair this would be repaint, but my truck is a work truck and I didn't figure a repaint into the purchase price..

Anyway, can I do anything to stop my chips from rusting more and look OK from 10 feet away?

I bought some touch up paint that match's well, but my issue is cleaning the rust out so the primer sticks and it doesn't start rusting again. The rust must have crept under the paint a little.. And I originally thought I would have to sand each of them. But Ive read, I don't need to sand the chip when using a product like Iron X. It will clean the rust away well enough to paint. Then only after primer paint/clear, it's sanded flat..

Is this true about Iron removing products working well enough not to need sanding? And is this approach a viable option for a DD?

Thanks!

Iron X bleeding Iron

You are chasing a large, elusive, invisible 6 foot rabbit. Seriously, either get it down to metal for a repaint, wrap it in vinyl, or get a nose mask and call it "fashionable." There really aren't any magic bullets when it comes to stuff like this..... And don't laugh at the nose mask thing, I did it with an old black Honda which was my work car for years. And yes, the girl that bought it off me thought it was "fashionable."

Yeah I had my doubts about that claim as Ive always known physically removing as much rust as possible is the best, because it never dies. But in my case, the spots are to small to individually sand and its just a shame, because there's a good chance the new paint wont match the old. But even with vinyl or a nose mask.. You would still want to stop the rust.

So what's worse? Little touch up bubbles only seen from <10' away, or paint on the hood and fenders noticeably different from any distance, and only correction would be a full paint job with the paint you had left over from the hood and fenders haha? I wish it was white.

For the small spots, tough to get the rust all out, however the pink eraser on a wood pencil can remove most, clean with acetone, put in some primer then the color paint.

Just erase em, I never thought of that.

Evaporust works well to safely remove rust. I haven't used IronX but the two are probably similar. If you don't want to sand, then use an etching primer and then the paint. That should work well enough to "arrest" the rust.

You can get Evaporust in a gel that clings to rusty areas until the rust is gone and then just washes off.

If your willing to dab color to all those spots why not extend a bit for effort and do just a slightly better repair?

Quick cheap or good.
https://www.business.com/articles/fast- ... ick-three/

New to the forum, I googled Iron X. I'd say some where between showing you the problem, and we''ll encapsulate it to reduce initial deoxidation, I'm sure it offers some neutralization with possible compound conversion as a product application? I found the video kind of winded and boring so I skipped threw it.

Nice truck. Nicer house! Buddy... Is that "A" house property? That's nice.
Past that your other picture doesn't reveal the extent of the problem? Bump up the game. Post a few pictures a bit further back.
Give the people what they want to see, the depth of the problem. Seeing a bit more perspective of what and where could help with a plan that's quick and good?

It appears too show some shoddy workmanship? Hmm? Rusty rock chips rust left behind.
Unchecked and festering slowly.
Like painful red boils, angry with a blistering eruption of a head. Pop.
Poor surface preparation before paint. Somebody missed a step?

For the sake of lurker readers seeking answers and interesting stuff lets call a spade a spade, quick and cheap bought temporary good. To bad it's a nice solid looking truck? Not enough something was done and here it stands. What to do about it? How to do it?

My bad in saying again, some buddy took a shortcut and pimples could be breaking out all over eventually? Or it could be certain areas prone to pitting?
A line in the sand? Show the problem, think Springer? Get it out in the open.
We can handle the truth.

I know what I'd do.
I also know what they say you should do. I wouldn't go quite that far.
For the record, the eraser trick has a time and place to be used effectively. Those ink ones are coarse.
Judging from the picture however, I think your going to need a bigger eraser?
I'm told, "a little bit of good work goes along way". Same could be said for advice maybe?
If not for me then the lurker. Pictures. Better advice will follow.

While matching Silver can be tough for a Perfect match in some cases, It most always looks great and matches at 5-10 feet just Sand it out re-shoot it.
I would rather have a slight miss match than a Goober Touch up any day.
Plus you get to the root of the problem removing the Rust before it can harm the metal any more.

Once Moisture has gotten under paint there just isn't any way to stop the corrosion process, It needs to be physically removed.