Hi guys - Just wanted to get your thoughts quick on my potentially stupid idea below, lol.

I'm repairing a hail damage car with all panels on the car, have the dents filled and now in epoxy primer. I'm preparing to spray Slick Sand and have masked off the car. So as not to get Slick Sand in the door jams, hood gaps, etc...I have laid a strip of tape over all gaps. My thought (hope) is I will spray the SS predominantly in the center of the panels where it's needed (feathering out to the taped gaps) and still be able pull the tape after the last coat (2-3) without the tape pulling the SS up, if I got too much on the tape. I would then be blocking it down and feathering to the epoxy around the perimeter of the panels, where the tape was.

I haven't used SS before, so not sure if this is practical.

Thoughts?

1/4 or maybe half inch tape might work.

but why not just mask the jambs ?

PainterDave wrote:1/4 or maybe half inch tape might work.

but why not just mask the jambs ?

Well, some of these jambs are filled with a rubber strip to dampen air noise, which is glued on and likely to be destroyed if I try to remove it (it's a Porsche cayenne). I also figured I could avoid sanding all the edges, if I keep the SS away from the edges, which are straight anyhow.

i'm with Dave. i'm also thinking by the time you go around with 3 coats things are going to start to harden up, epically if its a little warm. keep an eye on the viscosity once it starts to thicken up you had better think about dumping the gun and do a thorough cleaning, let alone have time to get the tape off. this stuff will ruin a gun if it starts to set up in the gun and it can happen quickly some times.
Jay D.

yeah im not sure i would recommend doing it.

i have done what you are talking about. but not with something like slick sand.
post a few pics of the jambs for us.

Slick Sand is literally on the "timer" from the instant it is mixed. It can easily turn a gun into a paperweight pretty fast...... I've been using it less and less over the years......

Please post a picture of what you are working on.

Poly primer has its place and small amounts of damage over an entire panel sound like a good time to use it.

You should be able to spray the entire panel by properly taping the openings. This will give you a consistent build rather than a humped up mess in the middle of the panel.

I normally use G2 Featherfill as it sands fairly easy.

You need at least a 1.8 tip to spray Poly primer but that is minimal and might require a little reduction. Acetone (check tech sheet) is what I believe they recommend and it makes clean up much easier.

Darrell is right, this stuff kicks off like filler because it is chemically activated and not air dry. If it says pot life is 20 minutes I would figure 15 minutes at most. Mixing will have a big impact on how quick it sets up and it can literally ruin your spray gun.

Mix only what you can spray in the recommended time. Shoot a coat or two at the most and then see what things look like. Using a guide coat is highly recommended.

we spray a little G2....

Well, I went for it as I already had it taped up. I was able to keep the SS mostly off the tape, feathering out towards the tape. The tape pulled off nicely when finished. The SS sprayed pretty well with a 2.5 tip, unreduced. I got two good coats, but wouldn't have enough for a complete third (I have 3/4 qt left). Could spray 3/4 qt in 15 mins., so no worries about the 30 min pot life. I was pretty nervous going in, but this stuff doesn't scare me at all now, lol. Hope the sanding goes as well, feathering at the tape lines.

I'll post a couple pics in a minute...my Mac is not wanting to attach pics at the moment...

looks good, glad it worked out for you. just be careful of that 30 min. pot life it can very quite a bit with temperature.
Jay D.