painted stripes

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 3:33 pm
Thank for the tips that's what I was looking for, I'm off work Thursday and will take my time will let you know how it turns out



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:54 pm
another little tip is I use a small sanding block that I cut from a larger block its about 2" wide and 2" long I then glue my 600 or what ever onto the block with some disc adhs.. just folding the paper around a block is asking for trouble it won't fold tight at the edges then it cuts into your clear. it sounds like a lot of fussing around but sanding through the clear on that hood might be disastrous.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:01 pm
rbsmustang1 wrote:Hi all been lurking this site for a while now, I just finished spraying a hood on a 72 challenger, it came out great but could use some tips on leveling out the clear on stripes before I shoot the last 2 coats of the clear , it has 3 coats on it now and was hoping there was a easier way than just sanding it all flat with out burning thru, thanks Randy


I'd hit it with some 800 wet by hand, then go over it with some scuffing paste on any areas that didn't get sanded - such as in-between the stripes. Then shoot 3 more coats of clear.

On my trunk lid where I had a heavy flake border, I ended up doing that 3 times to get my ridge flat, but it looks awesome now.

BTW, you photo is upside down on my computer, but your hood looks good.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:21 am
rbsmustang1 wrote:Thank for the tips that's what I was looking for, I'm off work Thursday and will take my time will let you know how it turns out



that looks pretty nice. when i do stripes, flames, or custom work i will error on the side of caution and if i think a line is not going to sand out i do not push it. ill cut as much as i can then reclear. cut one more time after that knowing im safe then do a final clear.

also when doing stripes, 4-5 light coats will be better than a 2 medium coats.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:24 am
Thanks all for the tips, I have the hood sanded out and re cleared ready for polish. I used 600 grit sticky back roll file paper on a hard block went real slow wet sanding, took all day but it came out nice and flat with no burn thru I will post a pic when I get it polished.



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:25 pm
be REAL careful with the buffer, I've ruined more paint jobs with a buffer than anything else. be sure to buff away for any edges and in the indentations watch the outer edge of your buffing wheel. it cuts much faster than the middle of the wheel more surface speed on the outside. good luck.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:16 pm
rbsmustang1 wrote: I have the hood sanded out and re cleared ready for polish. I used 600 grit sticky back roll file paper on a hard block went real slow wet sanding


P600? Even wet you'll never buff those scratches out.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:47 am
NFT5 wrote:
rbsmustang1 wrote: I have the hood sanded out and re cleared ready for polish. I used 600 grit sticky back roll file paper on a hard block went real slow wet sanding


P600? Even wet you'll never buff those scratches out.


600 was used before I re cleared it to get it flat I have Trizack 1500 & 3000 to use before polishing

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 8:02 am
Ah. OK, that's better.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:31 pm
PainterDave wrote:...when i do stripes, flames, or custom work i will error on the side of caution and if i think a line is not going to sand out i do not push it. ill cut as much as i can then reclear. cut one more time after that knowing im safe then do a final clear...


After cutting through my clear a few times by telling myself "just a little bit more" I finally learned it was better to recoat and sand then having to start over.
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