Brackets - Paint or Black oxide

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 6:23 am
So for those here that do lots of painting on cars, what would you recommend for the obscene amount of smallbrackets on cars. Do you paint the brackets?

Example the body bump stops are about 2 inches wide with rubber bonded to them, all mine are covered in rust, I really don’t want to fit rusty parts back on, and I certainly don’t want to go out and buy new ones.

I have a black oxide treatment kit for doing the bolts, attached photo. I’m wondering whether I should just simply treat the smaller brackets like I do the bolts under the body or should I epoxy primer and paint them?

Not to sure what manufacturers do with small hardware like this.

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 12:48 pm
first you'll need to remove the rust somehow. then just give them a coat or two of epoxy. the epoxy will give better protection than the black oxide.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 1:02 pm
It really depends on the type of restoration you are doing. Concours and you will need everything exactly has the factory did it. Local car shows, driver, etc. and you have quite a bit of flexibility.

Personally, I put everything like that through the sandblast cabinet and then black epoxy.

I poke holes in cardboard boxes and stand the bolts up and paint them while spraying other items. When dry I turn them up on their heads and paint the remainder of the threads.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:14 pm
Yes I have two sandblasting booths at work and a small cabinet at home with oxide blasting grit, so blasting every bracket and bolt/nut/washer.

Car is no show car, just my pride and joy.

Black epoxy it is then for all the brackets :), too late for the bolts, they have been blasted, oxide treated and soaked in boiled linseed oil

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:22 pm
I dump my small parts in a jar of Evaporust for a few hours, then dip or spray paint them.
As stated, it's hard to beat epoxy primer and then the color of your choice.
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:33 pm
I have Played with the Black Oxide coating and Plating parts with Zinc Cop ycad system from Caswell.

I have since came up with a Copper and Nickle Plating system I am gonna try as well.

The Auto mfg Used a Lot of HOT Black Oxide coatings as well as Cadmium plating.
that can be duplicated in the home shop.
Caswells COLD Black Oxide isn't worth the Price it costs to do parts in my opinion the coating doesn't last long before parts start corrosion process all over gain, although I do have a few parts that have lasted a good while they have been boxed up while others on vehicles exposed to the elements haven't.

If you can find some one actually doing Hot Black oxide locally go for it!
Hot Black Oxide is the way to go for sure but the cold process sold by many doesn't last very long if you cant keep retreating the protectant on the parts repeatedly all the time.

The Cadmium plating kit is great! works well and Lasts a long time, As does the Golden chromate treatments the Blue aint bad either. Kit is expensive to do any large parts but I am completely happy with it.

I am looking forward to playing with Copper and nickle in the near future
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:58 pm
I have a copper and nickel plating Setup, works great, just very time consuming. I use it for work, rebuilding musical instruments.

I may do a bit of reading on hot dipping, would hate for all my work to be undone in months, that is blasting and cleaning of the bolts

Steve



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 8:37 pm
Steve
What kind of Copper and Nickle solutions are you using?
The Home made nickle and copper acetate I saw on Utube made from Vinegar and table salt worked really fast. It took a few days to get each going I will admit but it worked very quickly once he had his solutions made up like he liked
.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88zDNAzXNuY

I had previously found a Place here in Las Vegas that would do Hot Black Oxide but I lost the name and place in my computer. I have to go looking again but basically they charged by the Pound for hardware Me cleaning my own stuff didn't help a bit in the price as they need to make sure every thing is cleaned and dried to there standards.
Cant blame them doing True Hot Black is dangerous Its done at 600 degrees. It works though and Lasts a long time.
I have heard about another process done at 450 but havnt heard anything about how long it lasts. at this point I plan to stick with the Cadmium and Chromates and work into Copper and Nickle.

Some parts I have done

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COLD Black Oxide
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Before
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Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 9:32 pm
:goodpost: cool pictures Dennis, the cadmium plating looks perfect. :clap: I'm going to check out the cadmium plating, that's something I could use. right now i'm working on a electrolysis rust removal tank.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 11:13 pm
The cold black oxide gives such a perfect looking finish, almost wondering if I can do the process and dip it into a clear lacquer to impregnate the black oxide.

Dont do cadmium plating, pretty nasty stuff, my mate is an electroplater and does cad plating for aircraft components all the time, very heavily regulated.

Here is a photo to my work where I am using my plating setup

http://www.mirwa.com.au/Piston_rebuilding.html

You have Sulphuric acid based solutions and Cyanide based solutions, commercial enterprises with strict EPA regulations can use the cyanide version and you get a better depositing from said solutions, my system is sulphuric acid based

Steve
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