OK SO I HAD A FREIND OF MINE TAKE A CAR TO GET STRIPPED AT A PLACE THAT DOES POWER COATING. THEY DID A PROCESS THEY CALL BURN OFF. THEY PUT THE BODY IN A OVEN LET TEMPERATURE RAISE SLOWLY OVER 8 HRS UNTIL IT HIT 850 DEGREES IT STAYED IN THERE FOR 24 HRS AND WENT IT CAME OUT I GUESS CLEAN UP AND ALL IT WAS CLEAN RUST FREE METAL.. WHAT DO YALL THINK OF THIS PROCESS, WARPING ISSUES WITH METAL. KIND OF NEVER HEARD OF IT BUT I WAS THINKING THEY SANDBLASTED IT OR SOMETHING BUT HE TELLING ME THEY PUT IT IN A OVEN.

Never heard of it, I will look it up. From my experience, less heat less problems. That process maybe good for frames and heavy equipment, but car and truck bodies at 850F I would steer clear of that personally.

850 degrees, WOW!!!

When I worked for American Axle in Detroit back around 1997 to 2007, I was a forging press operator. 850 degrees is how hot we heated the steel billets to in an induction heater just before they went into the dies in the stamping press. The product was GM's rear axle pinions. At that temperature the steel is glowing orange and any paper or burnable material that touches it will catch fire very quickly. No way I'd heat my panels up anywhere near that temperature.

Well, being in the wood/metal stripping business myself I had looked into this some time back...... Just to catch most of you up on "what" this process is here is the description of the process used by one of the larger companies offering this service.....

Burn-off Stripping

Burn off Stripping is a cost effective process of removing existing coatings, and debris from metal surfaces. This process can not be used on any items that cannot withstand 800 degrees.

"The process involves placing metal parts into an oven, and slowly heating them to approximately 800 degrees for approximately 2 hours. After they have cooled, they are blasted with abrasive media to remove all the ash This dramatically cuts down the amount of time that blasting would take depending on how many coats of paint or other coatings exist or how intricate the parts are, such as wrought iron patio sets.

Most items with existing paint will need to be both burned and blasted. This process is very safe and not harmful to most metal structures. The burning process itself will not damage the metal, but on extremely old pieces, such as wrought iron or very intricate pieces, the burning process could reveal cracks or imperfections that many layers of old paint have been hiding."

I think most of the theory with this tech. came from the large powder coating guys as they experimented with their large ovens and removing some of their own coatings. I don't know....seems like pushing some of these older metals to those temps. is getting awfully close to making grain changes in the metal itself. I mean it's not like all cars are even made from the same core metals. I think regular media blasting is safer. I mean.....the end result is just to end up with clean metal right????

Some rust metal strippers use that process. I have had a lot of panels stripped that way without any damage at all, the only time I had a problem was when the operator set a hood down too hard going in the oven and bent the rear edge.

This doesn't remove rust, just everything else, then the part gets dipped to remove rust. The key is to heat the entire panel slowly, and leave it in the oven until it slowly comes back down to normal temperature.

I like to do most of the metal work before this, because I think the high heat releases the tension in the metal.

I just noticed Darrel's post. That sounds like a method that blasters follow up with, but the two metal strippers I have encountered with an oven just use water pressure to clean up after the oven, then in the rust removal dip. I have seen some badly rusted metal panels that was waiting to be picked up, and some had very thin pitted metal with no damage.

Its like Dustless Blasting, painters, metal workers, and any other profession, the process is only as good as the operator.

Yeah, makes sense....I am sure there is a lot of degree of adjustment in the process depending on just what you are stripping as well. Ha, ha....I'd just want to make sure someone wasn't going to "learn" on my old car. Us furniture guys are going a different route now.... dry ice and micro sponge media blasting for woods....brave new worlds......

I'm sure there are new ovens out there, but its not a new idea. People just drop off their parts, and come back to get em when they're done, just knowing they were acid dipped and nothing else about the process. Like anything else, check references, inquire within, and get test samples done first, to see how good it is.
Here is the oven description of one stripper who uses the electrolysis system. They do much better work than the acid dip.

"We offer "state of the art" computer controlled thermal cleaning for items such as paint line racks, hooks, reject parts, powder coatings and e-coatings. Our oven is equipped with advanced process controllers to assure a uniformly controlled dual temperature system protecting against warping and distortion."

They offer different processes depending on what is being stripped. I removed some of the inner structure of a hood, and bolted supports in it with angle iron coming from the hood to use as legs. When I picked it up the hood was just the bare skin on a pallet, with all the supports cleaned and bundled next to it, and the bolts in a plastic bag. They said the bolts would come loose, so they took them off, and there was no damage at all to the hood.
And that is when I quit using the acid stripper who damaged another hood, even though they are a lot cheaper.
http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/services.html

I just heard of this process and was getting quotes on getting a 66 impala convertible acid dipped from a local place they telling me prices of 1800 just body add 250 for hood another 180 for trunk and 250 for doors. Well all I can say in the end i just figured they talking close to 2500 to acid dip a whole complete vehicle.
I was telling someone about acid dipping and they was saying how they did a project once and the acid doesn't evaporate and can be in place on the car body like it was in the rockets and they got car back completed body work got car painted and loaded in into a trailer while trailering it back from the body shop acid come out of rockets at some point and caused the paint to peel up.

There are different types of acid, and some shops do use the corrosive type acid (muriatic). It's hard to understand why they use it, but there is a place near me that does, it leaves the metal very susceptible to rusting, and is hard to get rid of. Its one of the strong acids, but for some it is the go to acid and has been recommended for home use many times because its sold in hardware stores for cleaning pools, concrete, and other household uses.

So when acid stripping you have to make sure they are using phosphoric acid, but the electrolysis method is much safer.

The price you quoted for cleaning a body is about right, but the panels should be around $100 each, depending on size.