First time painting, 3 new panels, priming help!

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 2:45 pm
Well I'm sure learning a lot lol.
New questions, what's the best way to get this crap off?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 4:31 pm
P80.
Chris



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 5:04 pm
Sigh... I hate when time and effort are the answer... This **** fender better come out looking pretty good for all this effort!



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 8:12 pm
Did a quick check and the primer I got is the FP401 - irritating because I asked the guy specifically for DTM primer,but whatever. Will the stuff I have now be suitable for the plastic pieces at least or is it useless to me for now?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 1:58 am
It makes a very good surfacer. I use 1K all the time and love it. Don't put it on too thick - multiple light coats and allow plenty of time for it to flash between coats. Sand only when fully dry if using as a filler, otherwise it may shrink more and outline the repair.
Chris



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 6:35 am
So, good for future touch up projects but not for new panel work?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 4:28 pm
1K primer has it's own set of strengths and weaknesses and you have to work to take advantage of these. For example, it's useless for rust protection or long term exposure because it absorbs moisture. But, if you have an e-coat and want a primer between it and your base then 1K is just fine. Similarly for plastics, it needs an adhesion promoter but it sands easily and basecoats adhere extremely well. If your substrate is good then it is very fast - ready to sand in 15 minutes in the right temperatures, but not so good if you need a high fill primer because its solids content is low compared to 2K products. It cures by evaporation, not chemical reaction so flash times are important - no wet on wet with 1K.
Chris



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 4:33 pm
Okay so with a decent adhesion promoter, the 1k will work for those plastic pieces as least so that's good, not a total waste I guess. Though I do need to get the 2k anyway so I could just use that for both. Oh well. Learning process!!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 11:42 pm
NFT5 wrote:...You can look at this as a practice session, not just for care in product selection but also in technique. The rough finish comes from too much air pressure and/or holding the gun too far from the panel. This is exacerbated by the use of acetone which is a very fast thinner and will start evaporating as soon as it leaves the gun, i.e. before it even hits the panel. Reduce your air pressure and hold the gun about 150mm from the panel...


I agree that you might be holding the gun too far from the surface. I had the same issue, until I saw a guy shooting clear all bent over and staring into the gun’s fan. I remember thinking “What the hell is he doing with the gun that close?” Then I found out that he was the painter in a production shop. I went back and measured 5” from my surface and tried (still try) to keep the tip at that constant distance. That and wearing a paint jacket has sure helped me.

And don’t worry, you can always sand, clean and reshoot - I know all too well!
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 12:35 pm
Pyrannha,

I too went in to a restoration with limited info. I had the body of my project car media blasted and then shot it with what I thought was the correct primer, primer surfacer by Napa. Well after 4 years of sitting in my garage as I did the metal work it started to show pin sized rust because the primer is Porous. :flatten: Anyway, re-blast and epoxy primer and a good chunk of $$ later I'm back to where I started getting ready to finish some metal repairs and start painting. :whoops:
Just wanted to share one experience that might save someone else a bit of grief and lost $$'s.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris :)
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