Whats up guys? So check this out, I am a long time custom hot rod, off-road, and really “anything dope enough to build” fabricator. Ive painted several custom rods and sleds but this request is a new one. Im painting an R6 airplane, (aluminum). Ive been doing a lot of research on the process for aluminum prep and learned all about weights and balance, UV protection, and durability to flex. Basically once the primer, filler, and sealer are on, you paint it the same as a car. Im looking for everyones opinion on the best brand of paint. This is strictly an experience based question, because the everyday rattle can expert will say, “they’re all the same, just different price”. Witch is BS. SO, I want to know what your favorite brand of paint is, or what have you worked with the most in your career. Im talking from the metal converter/etching coat, all the way through your top coat. Include fillers, plastic or fiberglass, bondo, etc.

For example, my favorite paint brand would be dupont for everyday paint, but house of kolors for the radical stuff. Every thought and opinion matters cause i want to lay a bad **** job. Heres the plane in bare metal now...

if you are using mud i wouldnt etch prime it, epoxy only way to go.

probably use DelFleet all the way through.

I love spraying PPG's epoxy but my opinion counts about 1/100 or less than that of these other guys including PD's.

* Just curious, when you say "filler' are you talking about body filler or just a HB primer? Do they use body filler (Bondo) on airplanes?

Oh god! Please keep posting pics of that project, that is AWESOME!

That looks like a Van's RV-6. There's an A&P mechanic on this forum that can give good painting advice for planes. Maybe he'll chime in.

Since it's still bare aluminum, one option is to polish it instead of painting. It's a lot of work and upkeep, but it looks good and keeps the weight down and useful load up. There are sealers available to make a polished finish's upkeep easier.

Don't sand it. Sanding will remove the alcor aluminum coating and compromise the rivet integrity. Back in the day, planes were painted using zinc chromate primer, followed with a polyurethane topcoat. There are also lightweight fillers available for aluminum airplanes. Keep the paintjob lightweight and corrosion resistant, and don't overdo the control surfaces...

it been at least 15 years ago I helped a friend of mine do an RV-4. we basically carefully cleaned the aluminum then did DuPont's 225s and 226s and their 1858s sealer. we top coated with Imron. we did two colors white and blue white being the base color and one coat the blue was the graphics color. if I were to do it to day I would probably do the alodine then epoxy mixed as a sealer, and then a base clear top coat. things to think about are getting access to all the areas after it has a coat of wet paint for another coat. get a pressure pot rent one or borrow one it will sure make it easier.
Jay D.

Use Alumiprep DO NOT SAND Metal! Then use Alodine 1001 or 1201, 1001 is a Clear type 1201 leaves metal Gold in color. Follow application instructions on all of these products!!!!! Alumiprep and Alodine can and will damage the metal if not applied correctly! Dwel time is critical!!!!
Do NOT Sand the metal prior to its application just use Alumiprep! follow Alodine with a Good Zinc chromate Epoxy primer.
The metal must also be extremely clean Prior to starting with the Alumiprep! I like to Use Tide! It rinses clean! the Water break test should be done after washing water should sheen and not break any where! Breaking shows sign of grease, wax, oil, contaminate of some sort and needs to be washed again! do not skip this step!

PTI may be a good source for all your aircraft Paint needs BUT you need to contact them directly either on phone or by email.
https://www.ptipaint.com/


https://www.skygeek.com/henkel-alumipre ... m8QAvD_BwE

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... recfer=217

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... mAQAvD_BwE


https://www.skygeek.com/henkel-alodine-1001-gallon.html

You can paint as you like After the Zinc chromate phaze afterwards as well as Fillers Just dont sand through Zinch chromate. If you do you have to redo Alodine and the Zinc.

I like Imron or Deltron single stage for colors. There are Many others out there that are good Imron and or Deltron were the best for a long time the Stuff is Incredibly tough.

You will need an A&P or a IA to inspect Flight control Balance after Painting DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! I realize its an experimental But if It were my Butt in that plane I would. Even if it were my own plane I was building I would have another A&P double check my work!

Its a good idea to include an A&P in the whole build for advice any way or better yet an an A&P with an IA.

Just random pics from the net:

Doright-those prolly arent sprayed with the typical iwata,sata, or devilbiss,eh?
refilling would get old real quick!

that's why you use a pressure pot. I have a 1 gal. and a 2gal they also come in handy for big rigs. I have a nice commercial type airless system that can spray anything. I've used it to paint the exterior and interior of houses, also fine intricate cabinets with water base and urethanes. i can adjust the spray to give a pattern that would compare to the best of spray guns. I would like to try it on a car but it takes nearly a gal to fill the line. I do think it would perfect for a large aircraft.
dennis.
i'll bet not to many know about the water break test, good post!
Jay D.

looking at the fourth picture it looks like they are applying clear with a large pressure pot, maybe 5 gal. with possibly 4 guns.
Jay D.

I use 5 gal. pots for wood finishing in our shop. They are so nice. Caught a sale from an industrial supplier that was phasing them out for switch to 30 and 55 gallon drum feeds.