I had my car media blasted with plastic media and am in the process of priming it with epoxy primer. I had the car painted years ago in lacquer and it eventually developed spiderweb cracks that likely allowed for moisture to enter under the paint. Of concern to me is the roof which I've DA'd with 80 grit. Despite sanding, I have grainy areas of metal corrosion, likely rust .....see photos. Not sure how I should best address this. I certainly don't want to risk leaving it only to have to paint strip it down the road. Would very much appreciate the input on how to best address this? Thanks!

I would media blast the rust out of those pits.

I would Blast as well
LIGHTLY watch your pressure and time in one place keep moving and only blast were needed. Car looks clean.

Is that an old Fast back Mustang ????

You've been holding out on us Mister! More Pics PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pro Paint booth Too Defiantly more Pics and the story behind the car too PLEASE!!!!!

I'm with theses guys you need to get all the brown out.
Jay D.

I have a 70 Chevelle that had a vinyl roof on it and it had similar pitting.

I treated the roof by applying Navel Jelly first and covering that with Plastic wrap to keep air out while the Jelly did its Magic and left it like that reapplying the jelly every 24 hrs for a few of days. I would also hit bad areas with a Wire wheel on my Die Grinder before reapplying the Jelly and plastic wrap.
The results were fantastic 98% of the minor pitting turned too clean metal almost all the Rust was gone just clean bare metal and the larger deeper areas turned black and stayed black as they are supposed too.
The Phosphoric acid in the Jelly turns the brown or red Iron Oxide (Rust) into Black Iron Phosphate.

Well I hate rust and while all instructions say once the rust has been converted to Iron Phosphate your good to go with Paint and it wont rust again well.... Did I mention I hate Rust?
Once I was done with this whole mess and I was still left with some big deep Black pitted areas I decided to Spot blast them and I am Glad I did because as soon as I hit the Black areas the the top layer was removed and I saw red rust again The Jelly can only penetrate so far into rust then it stops, as the rust is very compact and tight I guess the Acid cant penetrate all the way. Spot Blasting was the only way to get in there and clean the metal and remove all the rust! BUT by using the Jelly and the wrap I was able to reduce the area that needed blasting to a very small area which is good. Smaller area less area to clean less chance of warping metal from blasting.

I followed all that up with a Metal treatment made by Dupont 5717S and 5718S Cold Galvanizing treatment to prevent future rust and prep for paint.

If you go this route Removing and cleaning the Acids off can not be stressed enough It can and will penetrate Pinch welds and seams these areas require extra time and effort to remove and neutralize ALL of the Acids before Painting a Pressure washer and or Steam cleaner with Soap and water must be used in my opinion.