Sorry for all the threads im starting but i just found this forum and need help to tackle the few problems that i cant solve myself.

See pics. Does this looks like normal sanded primer? Im thinking its too much texture and takes forever to sand flat with big risk of burntroughs.

The mipa 1k grundfiller primersurfacer is on this pice sprayed at 2.5 bars and 3.5 turns out with devilbiss flg5.
Gun distance about 15 cm from object, laying it down wet and glossy.

Do i spray correct or should i spray closer or change any other setting?

After seeing the different pictures of this primer, I would suggest you get something of better quality.

Here's what build primer should look like before sanding:


Build primer is what gets your surface prepared for final painting. If your build primer has imperfections so will the final paint job.

I could not agree more! I have orderd some acrylic 2k high build primer which would hopefully solve my issues.

I tried to wetsand the primer to see if i could get it better which resulted in the primer lifting. I have painted som diffrent stuff over the years with mixed results but never had i have this many problems.

You have some crazy dry spray happening there and pinholing galore. Primer may be too thick for the gun, too. What size tip in the FLG5? Hardener may be too fast as well. Or wrong hardener/thinner?

Reduce your air pressure to about 1.5 bar and keep the gun perpendicular to surface. 50% overlap on each pass and slow down a bit.

Edit: Just checked some of your other threads. Don't know that Mipa product and their web site is possibly the worst I've ever seen. But I suspect that this and the problem with scratching showing through is all related. It looks to me like you're using a surfacer rather than a primer/filler and it isn't going on wet enough - resulting in the pinholes and the dry spray. Possibly also an issue with the product and/or mix. Rub throughs indicate not enough build and/or uneven application which is also indicated by the dryness.

To get a finish like you have I would have to use a gun that was too small, have air pressure way too high and be spraying from 300mm from the surface. The dryness and the dirt in your paint also indicates a static problem. Rubbing your tack cloth too vigorously on plastic can build up a static charge - dissipate this by blowing air over the surface and/or using a static wipe.

Thank you, i think your probably spot on about my problems in your edit.

I use a 1.8 for the flg. No harder since it 1k but you can choose to use either wbs thinner or activator, both up to 5%. I've tried both with no difference.

Mipa is common here in sweden. German brand. I think its similar to Standox, just a tiny bit cheaper.

I will respray on my pracites pice and see where that gets me when spraying closee. From what your seeing, should i thin it or spray it undiluted?

So, I've been busy spraying some practices panels as closer gun distance and finally tried spray my bumper again. This time closer, slower, lower air pressure. Looks much better when spraying coming on glossy. Feels smooth to the touch once dried but when im sanding im still getting heavy texture which is hard to sand flat.

What is causing this? Im still moving to fast?
This time i used the flg5, 1.4 tip, 1.8 bar, 3 turn out fluid. If i increase the fluid more i have problem with runs. The primer where sprayed undiluted.

Any ideas that helps me would be greatly appreciated.

Unfortunately I don't know that primer, so can't help you with experience. I did try to find the TDS but couldn't find it on the Mipa web site. But, it does seem odd that a primer be used unthinned. Try a section with the primer thinned another 5% and see how that goes.

I think that the results you've had from your practice session are very encouraging. It seems, from what you say that you're now just dealing with a bit of peel. Small adjustments, increasing pressure and moving a little quicker may help. Peel generally happens when paint is applied too thick so you want to try to atomise a bit more and lay it on a little thinner. I have a primer/sealer that I use regularly. With an FLG5 1.4 it goes on pretty good while with a 1.8mm it runs everywhere. I have an old Star 710 that is 1.5mm and it is absolutely perfect.

Sometimes you have to find that "sweet spot" and that usually means trialling different settings and techniques. It varies from product to product and even with different temperatures. Some products are just hard to use - one of the reasons that I generally use only Axalta products. They have the resources to put more into developing products that are highly productive. That said, they have a few that are awful, too.

The trick, that comes with experience, is to be able to dial in exactly what's needed. Keep at it, you're on the right track.

I'm sure you were having other problems, but this doesn't look like pin holes to me, it looks more like sanded primer over rust pits, or possibly a combination of the two.

Nah chevman, that's not rust pits.

He was running an unthinned 1K primer at 2.5 bar. Those are droplets of paint that dried before they hit and never flowed out. As I covered above, some changes in settings and technique have improved the result. OP just needs to fine tune a bit more.

Thank you for all the response and help, i forgot to attach the pics.

I think i can work with this and get a good surface and get this bumper done so i can go over to paint more fun parts.

As you can see i still have the texture from the first pic but no more pinholes.

To get less peel, how should i think about that? Higher pressure? More/Less fluid? Move faster? Edit: i see now that you answered my question in your last post. I try to tune the settings and move a little faster.

How do you spray primer? Do you spray one light coat followed medium wett? This time i just sprayed 3 medium wet coats, the first coat was a bit on the heavy side.