DarrelK wrote:Capspray eh?..... Old school straight Capspray, Wagner Capspray, or newer Capspray/Titan multi-stage unit???...... Can make a huge difference just what set-up you have as far as dialing in your viscosity.....

Well, my last house had to be sold after my wife had a pregnancy related stroke and lost her job, so the master bathroom was the last remaining, not remodeled room. The almond garden tub needed to be white. I bought a used 4 stage 9100, blue Sherwin Williams style on eBay, as I was familiar with it from my stint years back with tub and tile painting. I actually found a black Titan CS9100 as well locally right then for $100 on Craigslist and bought it because, well, it was dirt cheap, but needed about 1/8" of paint cleaned off it, and the gun rebuilt. I sold it to a friend after fixing it up. They both work about the same as I had experience with both in the past. It is handy and useful, so I decided to keep it.

I used the blue 9100 style on some bike parts as well and it worked just fine, seemingly less waste and mess. But that was a LONG time ago. So long, that I am back here asking all my questions regarding consumables. So much has changed it seems.

No problems..... 4 stage units are about the "minimum" nowadays for most auto coatings so you've got that covered. With auto 2k clears just try to keep your temp.s within reason when shooting and of course, use the slowest hardeners. You might also find that just a little extra "reduction" is needed (less than 5%) with the really high solids clears.

DarrelK wrote:No problems..... 4 stage units are about the "minimum" nowadays for most auto coatings so you've got that covered. With auto 2k clears just try to keep your temp.s within reason when shooting and of course, use the slowest hardeners. You might also find that just a little extra "reduction" is needed (less than 5%) with the really high solids clears.

Yes the temp thing is the problem. I am sweating my balls off right now in Florida just taping things off in the garage. I have a room in the house "my office" where I work on smaller stuff, but the bikes are in the garage.

Shoot at night/early morning if you have to....get one of those laser pointer/thermometer things and check your shop temp.s and surface temps. Put ice packs by your turbine inlets or throw the thing in one of those styrofoam coolers with some inlets for incoming air and then place the whole thing outside the building if needed. It's not like it takes long to shoot stuff, especially parts/panels.