Project is killing me

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 5:04 am
My project is killing me. For starters, using the Colorright Harley "matching" aerosols is one thing, but 2 weeks I haven't even gotten to clear stage on 1 part I've been working on. I keep dropping parts, or noticing missed blemishes, touching the final topcoat somehow. I've thrown the touch up and UPOL idea out the window, because I wind up with so many red spots from trying to fix small spots. And frankly, the topcoat "fades in" but it is just such a different hue and so dry that I've decided to do whole pieces, it will be faster in the end.

I was using glazing putty for small stuff, breaks in the clear, chips, and I just realized it removes the factory clearcoat when its wiped/spread on, though I've done well with actual bondo compound on the major damage. I suppose I should try and handle these blemishes with either bondo instead, or heavy coats of primer and sanding, and reserve the glazing putty for use over bondo only?

Being white seems to have made this tough, at least on my eyes, like snow blindness if that makes sense. It has been a learning experience. I learn best by trial and error. But now it's becoming frustrating more than fun.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 7:43 am
Are you talking about the old style uncatalyzed glazing putty in a tube? Stuff is hack for modern body work in my opinion. Get a good catalyzed putty like USC's Body Icing or similar....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:27 am
If your glazing putty is disturbing the paint then it's probably lacquer based,
which you should avoid, also, if it disturbs the paint then your paint is probably lacquer
too, which you should remove.
Lacquer paint is the least durable paint out there and no reputable painter
would use it, for primer or paint. Use anything but that.
JC

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 12:59 pm
yep, ALL :goodpost: ABOVE^ are you working on a Harley? most are lacquer, best and easiest way to go is to strip all the old paint off. I've NEVER had good results with Color-rite products and yes i hate painting white.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 2:50 pm
badsix wrote:yep, ALL :goodpost: ABOVE^ are you working on a Harley? most are lacquer, best and easiest way to go is to strip all the old paint off. I've NEVER had good results with Color-rite products and yes i hate painting white.
Jay D.


Yes!!

And yes, the Bondo red glazing putty. I don't know any better yet.



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 4:41 pm
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazin ... B0002JM8PY

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/ ... 079&rt=rud

Products like these are 1 K products they don't require a Hardener or mixing.
I avoid products like these, They can and will cause Problems.

Please read
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14772

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16694

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17445

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1945
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 4:53 pm
:goodpost: Do you have an air compressor and or a spray gun
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 7:54 pm
badsix wrote::goodpost: Do you have an air compressor and or a spray gun
Jay D.


I have a Capspray HVLP turbine and gun.



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 10:20 pm
sounds good one of our members know all about turbine set ups, he'll be chiming in soon I'll bet. what type of paint top coat material are you planning to use?
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:36 pm
Capspray eh?..... Old school straight Capspray, Wagner Capspray, or newer Capspray/Titan multi-stage unit???...... Can make a huge difference just what set-up you have as far as dialing in your viscosity.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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