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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 8:42 pm
67 Sanding3.jpg
Is this sanded good enough for epoxy primer?


Hello everyone, I'm starting my "hobby" once I retire a little early and that is auto body work. With just the little I've done so far (I "practiced" on a truck bed trailer) I'm really interested in learning this trade and being good at it. If you don't mind, I'm going to bombard you all with questions for the next 5-10 years.
Right now, I'm started working on my 1967 F250 pickup which I just bought. It's needing a lot of sanding as it has a lot of surface rust. Which leads me to my first question, Who makes a good DA sander? I used an electric DeWalt orbital on the truck bed trailer but I'm thinking of getting a pneumatic DA. Would it work better than the DeWalt and which one would you recommend?
Also would you please comment on top part of my panel I'm attaching. Is that good for epoxy or should it be sanded to bare metal all the way??
Thanks for the help! It'll be good getting to know you all.
Joe



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 7:09 am
I would start with getting an air compressor that will handle the cfm needed for any air tools you get.
Another thing you might consider looking into is an electric powered DA. Just in the last few years have manufactures starting offering them.
like this one-
https://aircat.com/6-pad-dc-electric-palm-sander
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 8:27 am
HudsonStudeguy wrote:I would start with getting an air compressor that will handle the cfm needed for any air tools you get.
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:goodpost:

A Good Air compressor is the most important tool in the shop! as is a Good water separator/water Trap system and some sort of air drier. Be extremely Picky about your compressor! You want the biggest baddest Mofo you can afford + some!
Air is everything!
knowing what I know now The minimum I would consider for a decent entry level home auto restoration/Paint shop that will do some light blasting, use blasting cabinets, Die grinders, air cutting, DA's, and of course Painting and other air tools:
Some will say its over kill, I say its the Bare minimum.

https://eatoncompressor.com/product/10h ... ndustrial/

And then theirs about a million other tools some good and a LOT Bad! on the market.
Every thing Harbor fright sells is cheap JUNK keep that in mind! and stay away from temptation! there Junk! quality tools pay for themselves every time! from not having to be replaced! Nothing worse than being in the middle of something and having to replace a tool to finish the job.


On your Truck bed yes that all needs to be taken to bare metal before Epoxy.
There are so many ways to get there Some use a Heat gun and a Razor, Some use a DA and 80 Grit, some use Chemical strippers. Then of course Blasting and the list isn't done there theirs chemical dipping as well there is about a Million different ways to get it done.

I use a 3M Velcro Hook it pad arbor and a 6 to 8 inch 3M stripping disk on Panels like that with a Variable speed Buffer/grinder to make light work of stripping light rust old paint and old body filler strip's the panel to bare metal Fast!

Image
Stripping side of 3M disk

Image
special Velcro hook pad Arbor

Image
velcro side of pad sticks to special velcro hook pad/arbor

The mesh design keeps the Temp down on the metal, I like to use a variable speed because you don't really need or want to use these at 20,000 RPM on a grinder with these slower is better more control less heat. You can do a whole car in a few hours.

Keep in mind you should thoroughly wash and de-grease de-wax car before any mechanical removal of any coating to keep from grinding contaminants on the surface of the paint into metal that may come back and haunt you latter. It can and will come back to haunt you.

After Stripping panels with the Stripping pad go over the panels with a DA and 80 Grit.
After Sanding Spray panels down with Wax and grease remover to lift contaminants then wiping in one direction with clean paper towels to clean surface of lifted contaminants, after cleaning panels of all dust dirt general yuck after paper used is clean after each wipe then wait for 45 minutes to an hour for wax and grease remover to flash off longer if you can! W/G remover is very slow to flash off! then spray your panels with Epoxy or Etching Primer.


For air sanders and DA's there are Hundreds on the Market with different sanding Orbits big and small for different things different coatings again some good some bad do you need the most expensive? do you need Snap on? NO!!!!!
But I would suggest a Good name brand for longevity.
Hutchins is one of the best in my opinion but they are VERY expensive.
I have a Lot of Ingersol Rand Junk is it the best NO and they are Air Hogs! but they are robust and live a long time if cared for a little a drop or two of oil once in a while and good clean DRY air will make air tools last a very long time!
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 8:36 pm
Hey thanks for the great info! I'm looking forward to sanding tomorrow evening. Where is a good place to buy epoxy primer? Auto stores around here don't carry it.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:21 pm
No epoxy??? Hey, you really are out in Kansas there Toto.....sorry, couldn't help myself. Okay, look up at the top of this page and you will see Store Front. Tap on that and go look at the Tamco products. They have epoxy as well as other good products. Direct ship to your door with no shipping charge (if over 50 bucks) and you should have it pretty quick. I get my stuff within about 3 days or so but I am in Ohio.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:41 am
Thanks DarrelK, I appreciate it! I'm sure we have epoxy somewhere in Kansas, but I can't find it :))

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 7:36 am
This might help.....you might try and go directly to some of the PPG, DuPont, Transtar, Sherwin Williams, etc., web sites and see if you see a Store Locator button. If so punch in your zip code and you should come up with what we call "paint jobbers" or distributors in your area. I know our O'Reillys here does order in DuPont stuff and our local NAPA carries their re-branded Sherwin Williams. Honestly, though, if it's anything other than color I just prefer to buy it here now.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 9:40 am
Welcome to the Forum.

There are many good articles on the Info Center plus Sticky Posts at the top of each specific forum to help you understand the process.

I wrote an article to help people like yourself: https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/

Suggest you start a thread in the projects section so people can follow your progress.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:03 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Welcome to the Forum.

There are many good articles on the Info Center plus Sticky Posts at the top of each specific forum to help you understand the process.

I wrote an article to help people like yourself: https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/

Suggest you start a thread in the projects section so people can follow your progress.


Awesome! Thanks Jim

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:47 pm
Doright wrote: A Good Air compressor is the most important tool in the shop! as is a Good water separator/water Trap system and some sort of air drier...
Some will say its over kill, I say its the Bare minimum.

https://eatoncompressor.com/product/10h ... ndustrial/


Dennis, that is an awesome air compressor for the price. That is less than the smaller pump Quincys that I've been considering. Thanks for that link!

I use a 3M Velcro Hook it pad arbor and a 6 to 8 inch 3M stripping disk on Panels like that with a Variable speed Buffer/grinder to make light work of stripping light rust old paint and old body filler strip's the panel to bare metal Fast!...


* Do you know where those are available online in 8" & 6" H&L? I already have the backing pads
My local jobber changed over a year ago and the guys in there now didn't even know where to look.

I found one place online but they only had cases for over $500!! I don't need that many!!

For air sanders and DA's there are Hundreds on the Market with different sanding Orbits big and small for different things different coatings again some good some bad do you need the most expensive? do you need Snap on? NO!!!!!
But I would suggest a Good name brand for longevity.
Hutchins is one of the best in my opinion but they are VERY expensive.


I am a weekender rookie and I have the cheapy "value" line of Hutchins and a 3M DA. I like them both. I had an AirVantage DA, it took a dump shortly after purchasing it and they did not back it up and tried to blame me! I tossed it in the trash.
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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