Primer or sealer after sanding car in 220

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 3:44 pm
Hey guys, I'm a first time car painter and just finished sanding my entire car in 220 grit, and using bondo on any dents etc. I took extra care to go over every nook and cranny. Since the entire car is sanded, could I just use a sealer, scuff any rough areas with 400 then shoot base? Or should I shoot a primer and resand the whole thing? I'm using HOK Kd3000 and depending on my mixture of hardener and reducer it can either serve as a sealer or primer. Thanks guys! Also, if I go the sealer route, how long should I wait from shooting sealer to base?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 9:57 pm
I wouldn't depend on the KD3000 covering up 220 scratches when used as a sealer. Use it as a primer and sand it with p400 if final color is light; use p600 if color is a dark poly.

I doubt if a sealer coat is needed if you prep as above, but check the HOK p sheet. Recoat window is usually about 24 hrs.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 9:47 am
Proper prep is what makes a good paint job.
You may think you have everything smooth as glass only to find when you spray your color and clear that things aren't that great.

Check out the top of the body and paint forum sticky posts. Read the one on using guide coat to make sure you are ready for paint.

There is a lot more involved in properly painting a car than most people realize.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 10:23 am
Just my 2 Cents,

what kind of quality you hoping for ?

perfectly OK to seal over 220, i do it every day.

Sealer is a lot lees labor than prepping in 600, Sealer also promotes adhesion better than basing over 600 primer, it does add cost to the job with materials, but it does usually take less basecoat to cover if use the proper shade, so that evens out the cost.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:18 pm
PainterDave wrote:Just my 2 Cents,

what kind of quality you hoping for ?

perfectly OK to seal over 220, i do it every day.

Sealer is a lot lees labor than prepping in 600, Sealer also promotes adhesion better than basing over 600 primer, it does add cost to the job with materials, but it does usually take less basecoat to cover if use the proper shade, so that evens out the cost.


What size tip are you using?
How many coats?
What brand sealer?

I am sure all of these things make a difference as to a nice smooth finish.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:09 pm
350znoobie wrote:...Thanks guys! Also, if I go the sealer route, how long should I wait from shooting sealer to base?


I download the tech sheets for all of my materials and keep them in a binder for reference, then make notes on them.

From the HOK tech sheet;
Used as a Sealer
Sealers are designed to create a chemical bond between the surfacer and the
base coat. Allow the sealer to dry 15-30 min. but not to exceed 4 hours prior to
top coating.


I love using the HOK KD3000 series of primers and I usually wait about an hour prior to top coating. My pig barn shop is usually pretty warm (hot) and relatively dry (Northern California) - your local conditions may vary.

I have started using more of Tamco's sandable primers as I can easily get them in gallons
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 8:28 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:
PainterDave wrote:Just my 2 Cents,

what kind of quality you hoping for ?

perfectly OK to seal over 220, i do it every day.

Sealer is a lot lees labor than prepping in 600, Sealer also promotes adhesion better than basing over 600 primer, it does add cost to the job with materials, but it does usually take less basecoat to cover if use the proper shade, so that evens out the cost.


What size tip are you using?
How many coats?
What brand sealer?

I am sure all of these things make a difference as to a nice smooth finish.


Good point !

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2019 3:34 am
Hey guys, I plan to shoot the high build sealer/ medium build surfacer. I'm planning to do one good coat, then let it flash off for about 45 minutes since it's been getting hot in San Francisco this past week, then move to 2 coats of base and 2 coats of clear. I'm going to be using a devilbiss finish line with a 1.5mm tip, and right now I only have a regulator filter combo in between the gun and the compressor. Any misc advice is greatly appreciated. I just went over the entire car once more in 220 by wiping the car down with a moist cloth then looking for any imperfections, scratches, etc and sanding over it once more. It looks quite good. I think I should be fine using just a sealer.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:56 am
I cannot understate how important guide coat is to getting it perfect.

Only 2 coats of base? What color?

Only 2 coats of clear?

I guess we are back to Painter Dave's question: What kind of quality are you looking for?
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2019 10:57 am
Im looking for a paint job that you can look at for a few seconds and think, wow, that looks good! Not something you come up to and stare at for 30 minutes then make a checklist of imperfections and come up with none. I read a couple articles about a guide coat, and don't think going through the effort to put it on would be worth the time. As I said, I'm under time pressure. https://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/det ... ref=kolors
This is my basecoat, and the Shimrin2 bases are semi transparent so i thought it would look best after a coat of sealer. A guy on reddit even told me I don't need an undercoat. I thought he was a tad bit off his Rocker. I might do 3 coats of each base and top coat each going light on the first and wet on the last, but once again I'm not experienced so any advice is greatly appreciated. Much thanks!
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