Sanded with 220 DA to cut through the grime and old coating, followed up with 350 grit and then covered everything with 2k filler primer. Prior yo filler primer, a few repair spots I grinded, bondo filler, then topped with glaze to get rid of pin holes and remaining lows.

After countless hours of wet block sanding with 400 grit I have everything flat. To get it all flat required a few spots to be sanded back down to some of the filler as well as the old original coating. For this reason I thinn I need to put on a sealer before I paint to cover up these dark spots. Will sealer primer work over the small areas of glaze putty and any small run throughs to metal? The prospect of applying another 2k primer coat is very discouraging because all would need sanded again. I could spot primer but everything is flat already so in my mind this would just be a high spit that needs to be feathered.

See attached photo. You can see the dark green peeking through. The new paint is a beige so I Def need a sealer. You cant really see in this picture but there are a few areas of pink glaze peeking through.

The Jeep looks flatter than they came from the factory. Good job.
It looks like it's ready for a coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer to me, then the
color coat...

The high behind the rear wheel might be a concern; maybe give it an extra
pass or two in that area.

OK so I picked up sone Omni brand epoxy. The data sheet does say it will go over bare metal and putty so that is defiantly good. The data sheet says it is 2:1 and can be reduced with acetone by 2 to 1 to 1/2. This means it is reduced by 1/6 or 16.5%. Does this sound right or are you guys reducing it further? I was also surprised to see that the reducer was acetone.

you might find some pin holes if you seal over filler, do it right and spot prime

Here's a link to a 67 CJ5 I did a while back. Might be good for reference photos and ideas or even good for a few laughs.
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