The proper order for substantial bodywork

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:45 pm
I read the how to prep sticky and still have a question. I generally understand that I want to strip the car, spray epoxy, then high build, block, seal, then base, then clear. Let’s say that I have an all-over that has old paint and needs some fairly heavy bodywork, dents, patch panels, etc. If I want to blast the car, should I start with the patches and heavy bodywork and get it 95% straight before blasting and epoxy, or should I blast, epoxy, do the heavy work, then re-epoxy, high build, etc. It seems like the former would be the way to go as I would be afraid of disturbing the underlying epoxy by beating and banging on the panels. Thoughts?



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2019 11:20 pm
heres what I do and these are mostly old vehicles. I have the car delivered and if possible completely disassembled. windows out, bumpers off, grill and any other molding off, window regulators and weather-stripping off, in other words its just a shell. then it usually has rust somewhere so it gets blasted for repairs. In the shop I start repair of the rusted areas and any body damage. when not on that i'm sanding the paint off to bare metal with a sander and or paint remover. I will sometimes coat different panels with a coat or two of epoxy, these are panels that are good and flat and ready to block or that are ready to have bondo applied. I sometimes try and get a coat of HI build over the epoxy on the good panels so I don't have to sand the epoxy. when all the body work is done then you can start the finish work. this is what I typically strive for but every job is different.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2019 12:25 am
Here's a check list to get you started.

1. Evaluate overall condition of car.
a. Check for previous damage and repairs made.
b. Photo document “before” condition of car.
c. Make written notes of obvious work to be done.
d. Make written notes of missing or damaged parts needing to be replaced.
2. Dismantle car.
a. Remove seats and interior soft trim.
i. Take photos of any damage
ii. Take photos of difficult to assemble areas.
b. Remove chrome trim.
c. Remove windshield wipers.
d. Remove side glass and roller assemblies.
e. Remove mirrors.
f. Remove door locks, glove box lock, and trunk lock.
g. Remove bumpers.
h. Remove windshield and back light.
i. Remove tail and turn signal lights.
j. Remove radio.
k. Remove ignition switch
l. Remove dash pad and trim.
m. Remove dash gauge assembly.
n. Remove heater box.
o. Remove fresh air vents.
p. Remove heater controls.
q. Remove light switch, etc.
r. Remove ash tray
s. Remove steering column
t. Remove behind dash wiring harness.
u. Remove interior wiring harness.
v. Remove interior light switches from door jams.
w. Remove door striker posts
x. Remove window felts.
y. Remove weather stripping.
z. Remove doors, hood, fenders and trunk lid.
aa. Remove body plugs.
3. Remove exhaust system.
4. Remove fuel tank and lines.
5. Remove emergency brake assembly and cables.
6. Remove Radiator
7. Remove Battery and tray
8. Remove engine and drive train.
9. Remove engine wiring harness and bulk head connector
10. Remove windshield washer bottle and assembly.
11. Wash car.
12. Media blast to strip existing paint and remove rust from car.
13. Repair or replace damaged/rusted metal.
14. Scuff new panels for paint prior to installation.
15. Spray two coats of epoxy primer on car inside and out.
15. Lightly block sand car with 150 grit.
16. Beginning at left front of body, begin filler work one section at a time.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 1:18 am
So it looks like sand/blast/strip, then rust repair or body damage to get close, then epoxy, then final body work (filler), then high build, then sealer, base, clear, and cut/polish. Thanks guys.

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