So pending the answer from Matrix, is a rag soaked in thinner the best way to test this situation? If it comes up clean is it a safe assumption that it has dried properly? Or is there more that needs to be considered?
Thank you all for your replies so far. No one ever said learning to do this was going to be easy (or cheap).
Messed up, not sure how to proceed
17 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Settled In
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 12:56 pm Country: USA |
|
ive been doing this 30 years... i have or at least try to keep hardeners in order. but i do know when i pour the wrong one into a mix (and yes i have done it even recently) that it is 100% my fault. if a jobber sells you a gallon of blue paint for a car youre painting red and you still use that blue paint is that the jobbers fault you put it on the car ? im sorry buddy but its not even the jobbers fault you took home the product. you shouldve known at the counter you didnt have the right stuff. wash off the epoxy. Experienced Trained Certified
SATA Spray Equipment Germany Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000 PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis Valspar DeBeer LIC Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal |
|
All of us have been burned by the guy working the counter before.
It is one of the reasons this site exists. It gives newbies a place to ask questions, learn about different products and procedures. What happens so often is that guys come here after they have gotten into trouble. That means there are certain questions we deal with a lot and this can get frustrating at times, especially when a first time painter questions the advice they receive based on information gained someplace else. Painterdave is one of the true professional painters on this site and his work speaks for itself. I for one am very thankful he has the desire to help hobbyists like myself. Ultimately the buck stops with the guy doing the job. I mean if the paints starts peeling off the car in six months, you are not going to be able to point the finger at the paint store worker. I learned a long time ago that my name goes on every paint job. So even if the guy wants a "driver" quality paint job I still go the extra mile to make it nice. That is what happened with the '62 Chevy Truck I painted. The guy ends up taking it to a car show and wins a trophy after he made a big deal about the truck just being a driver. Now that you have been burned by the guy who sold you mismatched paint, you will pay much closer attention in the future. The work involved to strip that epoxy off will be a constant reminder never to trust those counter people again. However, knowing you have a good foundation for your paint job will ease your mind about future problems. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
|
good post
OP it is ultimately up to you on how to proceed, but keep in mind even a light coat of paint with no hardener may "feel" dry after a few days. that does not mean its a sound and solid substrate to paint over. i wish you luck Experienced Trained Certified
SATA Spray Equipment Germany Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000 PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis Valspar DeBeer LIC Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal |
|
Settled In
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 12:56 pm Country: USA |
I sure hope it didn't come across as questioning advice... that's why I came here in the first place. As a newbie this is a great resource of information, which is why I turned to you guys hat in hand. I really don't care who's "fault" it is, pointing fingers doesn't get anybody anywhere and it sure doesn't get my car fixed. I spoke with the Matrix rep this afternoon. Essentially it boils down to 2/3 of the job being okay, with encouragement to strip the trunk and shoot again. The lack of hardener could result in the top coat ultimately not working with the base layer in this area (as you guys have said), but he encouraged starting with sand paper before moving on to thinner. I imagine I will need a combination of both. He also mentioned that the jobber should not be carrying both primers, as one is and has been a discontinued product. Furthermore, he was disappointed to hear that the store did not check the product numbers nor provide the TDS with the product, both of which would have prevented this issue from occurring. I'm doing the best I can here, trying to teach myself this as I go. I appreciate the help and advice. I get the "tough love you should have known better approach" but that's not really helpful in fixing the situation. Sometimes it takes 30 years of experience to know better. And sometimes it takes screwing up before learning to get it right. |
What a great thread. Although I got a , Coronet and Painter Dave raised the bar by expanding with accurate and well presented posts.
My hat also goes off to cc_mustang who, as OP, asked the question the right way and took the advice given seriously and then gave great feedback on what had happened. Well done gents. Chris
|
|
Good to hear, i do hope it all works out for you. and for the record its not "tough love" it is following the rules, not swaying from that rule, and being diligent and accurate. that's tough to do and tough for some to hear. but if you follow the rules you will succeed. Experienced Trained Certified
SATA Spray Equipment Germany Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000 PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis Valspar DeBeer LIC Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal |
|
17 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: NFT5 and 126 guests