Question about run removal

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 9:57 pm
JCCLARK wrote:...........You have to get the run close to the same hardness as the surrounding area, it's thicker so it's softer, which means it will sand differently than the
area around it. Best way to do that is remove most of the run then let it cure a day before final sanding. preferably in the sun, or a heat lamp really helps.......

:goodpost: Patience is the key.
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 10:02 am
I agree with JC as well.

Normally I put some 400 on a piece of Oak and carefully sand just the run to open and let the solvent out. Leave it set until hard or you will pull more than just the run while trying to sand it.

Once the run is almost to the surface level I change grits to 1000 but continue to use the Oak block until the run is level with the surface.

Some inspiration for you!

Here was my first attempt at spraying clear coat. Notice the clear dripping off the wheel well lip.
P1010001.JPG


I lightly sanded the area to see how bad things were:
P1010004.JPG


Patience is the key and making sure to keep the wooden block on just the runs:
P1010008.JPG


Once to this point I proceeded as a normal cut and buff. 1000, 1500, 2000
P1010001.JPG


After buffing:
Runs Gone.JPG

Bumble Bee Stripes.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 12:00 pm
WOW nice job on that ^^^ that would be a real challenge, it takes time and ALOT of patience. it sure isn't as easy as it sounds. 2x on the wood blocks I have 8 or10 oak blocks of various sizes.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay
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