Are these e-coated?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 5:49 pm
Good evening people!

I bought two fenders and I was trying to figured it out if they are e-coated or not. I rubbed them very well with lacquer thinner and the most amount of "black" color on the tissue I found, is minimal. Can you tell from the picture I attached here if the fenders are e-coated?

I researched about what to do, and opinions are very different. I found who scuffs the e-coat and paint directly the base color. Somebody else said it's always good to prime e-coat. Somebody said, e-coat needs a sealer and that's it.

I admit, I don't want to tart the job until I'm sure what it's needed.

Thank you all for your eventual help!
Attachments
Rubbed.jpg
Lacquer thinner to find if the fender is e-coated

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 4:56 am
It's been 17 years since I started my own shop and in that time I've seen countless bars where the paint has just peeled off due to inadequate preparation. Also lots of spoilers and body kits because of crappy quality and/or inadequate preparation. Yet I've never once seen a metal panel where the finish has been applied directly to the factory primer/e-coat or whatever you want to call it, peel or crack off and take the factory primer with it. It's easy to see when you're doing repairs and feathering out. Nor have I ever seen an "e-coat"that won't feather nicely.

The days of panels being supplied with a some kind of temporary corrosion protection like oil, wax or even some spayed on concoction, are long gone.

I've painted some panels with top coats straight over the factory finish (although I usually don't) and not one of those has ever come back with a problem. I've used 1K primer, 2K primer, epoxy and sealers and never had a problem.

What does that say? It says that the bond that is between the metal and whatever finish they apply is good. It doesn't matter what that coating is, the factory put it there for a good reason. testing with acrylic thinners doesn't necessarily tell the story either. Some panels, from reputable manufacturers, now come with a water based primer which dissolves with thinners. This is what it is supposed to do as the thinners in whatever paint you put on will partially melt the top of the primer, providing a very good bond.

I generally use Certified Parts which are close to, sometimes better than, OEM. Most of these come with paint instructions on the packaging or on the inside of the panel. If you have that then just follow what the instructions say.

Although I firmly believe it to be waste of time, you can strip that factory coating off and replace with your own, either an epoxy or a DTM primer. If that gives you peace of mind then maybe it will be worth the effort. If the panel is straight, then clean, scuff well and clean again before applying a sealer followed by your top coats. Keeping the total film build low will do more for performance of your finish than slapping on coat after coat of unnecessary paint.

The most important thing is that you apply the coatings you have, strictly according to the instructions on the TDS. Follow these and you'll be fine. Deviate, by error or intent, and you'll be in more strife than you ever imagined was possible.

That thinners hasn't affected the finish on your panels indicates that it is probably a 2K primer. Definitely no need to take that off.
Chris



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2019 10:31 pm
Chris, thank you very much for your help!

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