Chris gave you some excilent info. in the pictures it looks like you have feathered the bare spots real good, your probably not going to notice them. IF you still want to use the glazing putty be sure to use the 2 part type.
Jay D.

Jay's right. Just make sure that you've feathered out the paint around any areas you've sanded and give it a couple of coats of epoxy. Address any spots that are visible, but I'd wager there won't be many.

There may be other, tiny spots that you can't see but rust needs air to grow and the epoxy cuts that off, at least from the outside.

There may be other, tiny spots that you can't see but rust needs air to grow and the epoxy cuts that off, at least from the outside.[/quote]

Thank you, Chris and Jay!
That's what I wanted to hear:)

I did get Dolphine 2 part glaze!

It's been a slow process, some days I worked 4h, some 0h, some 8h, but I think I am about 100 hours into the project ( at least!) Areas under driver and passenger step-in thresholds as well as area below rear access doors were projects by itself (those areas are inside and covered by doors/ thresholds) needed to be done before I can focus on full exterior.
Windshield went out to work on that ledge, it was cracked anyway, good time to do it.

I did the bodywork before epoxy primer. Found a few spots that needed attention after epoxy and putty glazed them. Now my plan is to use 2K 5Star Xtreme Filler/Sealer on areas I glazed and maybe most prominent areas.
Then I should be ready for base and clear.
I used a donor sliding door since mine had a rust hole on bottom beyond repair and practiced using my new Tekna Prolite for base and clear on the inside of that door/jamb (it was blue and my van will be white as before).
I was watching Youtube videos and find contradiction info about settings to use with Prolite.
One guy is saying ( if shooting in a garage and not in a booth ) use low pressure like 16psi and fluid knob 2,5 turns out and 5" away from panel for clear to avoid orange peel. I tried that on my old sliding door for practice and had a couple runs, although it did lay flat without orange peel for the most part, pretty good for a complete newbie.
What are your thoughts , what settings are you using with Prolite?
It came with 1.2 1.3 1.4 and TE10 & TE20.
I am in a garage with little to no air movement, just to let you know. Will be using high solids clear.

Just to let you know, buy the time you get a couple coats of clear on that thing the overspray is going to be so thick you won't be able to see it. and it would probably be a good idea not to make any sparks. your going to need a fan of some kind exiting some of the overspray. A good rule to follow is to use just enough air pressure to atomize your product properly. this minimizes overspray and wasted product, you have to get it just right the gun manufactures specs are just a starting point. I think your low pressure is going to cause problems when you start on those big panels. anyway it doesn't hurt to experiment on our old door.
Jay D.

I am done with my first ever paint job!
It's not perfect, some orange peel in areas, but I am happy with the result.
The front is better because I cleared it last and gotten used to the gun by that time when I was almost done! lol!

LOOKS GOOD its quite satisfying isn't it.
Jay D.

Thank you Jay and Chris for your advice to feather out good, I wouldn’t have thought about it and tried to putty glaze. Feathering out saved me many hours!
I learned a bit and will be more confident to paint a family sedan next.

My observations:

Rust&Paint removing discs on a grinder DO gouge metal very lightly.
I guess it’s best to use P60-80 on a DA to strip to bare metal.
I could see low spots after epoxy primer. Had to putty glaze the worst and
use high build primer after and sand most of it to fill the low spots.

Epoxy primer was very forgiving to work with, lays flat easily,
but you can still get a run if not careful.

Once I shot epoxy, I saw a sort of a ghost of commercial lettering
I had on the van over 10 years ago! It disappeared once the epoxy cured.
It was the weirdest thing, the decals went off over 10 years ago and areas got sanded/ painted after!

The project took me a lot longer than I thought it would - about 150 hours!
Years ago I had quotes $6K to 11K to have it done.
If it wasn’t for this quarantine and lack of work for a month,
I would have never ventured into this kind of project!

This is under clear clear coat. Not the vinyl, I shot a darker color on primer in that area and put the vinyl lettering when it cured, painted white base all over and took the letters off before clearing. You can kind of feel that letters are lower, but at least the won’t peel off;)