Hi all,

First post from across the pond so go easy eh!

Here goes, I am refurbishing some alloy wheels and I am having some primer issues on the last one - others turned out pretty good.

I think I may have gone a little heavy with the primer and possibly too many coats too trying to 'cover' my error.

I am not a pro so rookie mistake I think.

How do I rectify this?

https://ibb.co/2vVgFs0

Thanks.

your picture is to small I couldn't make it bigger. also you might name the products your using and a little bit about how you did it .
Jay D.

Yes, rookie mistake - too much primer and probably uneven or forced drying.

Sand it all off and then repair the substrate, sanding out scratches and filling where necessary and feathering any edges. Get it smooth and straight before priming (which should only be 2-3 coats medium wet. Allow adequate flash times between coats (10-15 minutes at 20C) and a couple of hours to overnight after final coat. Assume you are using 1K/acrylic primer.

You can upload pictures to this site. They should be at least 800x600 so that we can see details. Thumbnails are pretty useless. The site will adjust display size for bigger pics but allow the reader to expand if required. See options at the bottom of the window when you're typing your post.

Thanks guys for the replies.

I did try to upload a picture via the site but it didnt show up "The image file you tried to attach is invalid"

Hopefully bigger pic here https://ibb.co/6wmgq7h

I used Hycote primer here in the UK if you guys have heard of it out of a rattle can for the primer and used a heat gun to help it dry, I did layer it on thinking I'd be able to cover the cracks

LeoUJK wrote:a rattle can for the primer and used a heat gun to help it dry, I did layer it on

Exactly what I said.

That's 'frying up'. The solvents are attacking the underlying layers and causing them to soften and react because the paint is too thick and the solvents are not evaporating as they should, instead being trapped under all those extra coats you've applied.

Solution is exactly how I described it earlier. Light coats with plenty of time to flash off. Primer in a spray can is very low in solids and high in solvent. If it's cold where you're working then use heat lamps a couple of metres away to gently heat the whole area, never concentrated heat like a heat gun, unless you really know what you're doing.

Once you've built up a layer of primer, sand it back and apply your top coats the same way - light even coats with plenty of time for flash off. The good thing about acrylics is that you can leave them for a long time between coats because the thinners will soften the previous layer and essentially melt in. But you don't want those solvents getting all the way down to that reactive, original layer.

NFT5 wrote:

LeoUJK wrote:a rattle can for the primer and used a heat gun to help it dry, I did layer it on

Exactly what I said.

That's 'frying up'. The solvents are attacking the underlying layers and causing them to soften and react because the paint is too thick and the solvents are not evaporating as they should, instead being trapped under all those extra coats you've applied.

Solution is exactly how I described it earlier. Light coats with plenty of time to flash off. Primer in a spray can is very low in solids and high in solvent. If it's cold where you're working then use heat lamps a couple of metres away to gently heat the whole area, never concentrated heat like a heat gun, unless you really know what you're doing.

Once you've built up a layer of primer, sand it back and apply your top coats the same way - light even coats with plenty of time for flash off. The good thing about acrylics is that you can leave them for a long time between coats because the thinners will soften the previous layer and essentially melt in. But you don't want those solvents getting all the way down to that reactive, original layer.

Thanks for that.

Yep you were correct in your thinking on how i stuffed this one up

I have sanded the fry up areas down with 120 and used a grey scotchbrite on the other ok areas to scuff ready for the re painting and clear.

Pic sanded
https://imgur.com/OzS1G0y

I am running low on the basecoat i used so will i be ok to just paint the fry up areas and then re clear the whole wheel?

I would refine the sanded areas to P400. Reason being that, as I said earlier, the primer is low in solids and you don't want to put it on heavy to fill P120 scratches.

Then basecoat just over the repaired areas, blending edges out into the area where you've scuffed with the grey Scotchbrite and reclear the whole wheel.

Brilliant advice thanks again buddy

Gave it a run over with p400 and re primed and took my time and touch wood no fry ups in sight

I will sand the primer tomorrow and then base and clear, will post the results.

Thanks again for the help, really nice place this