I started wet sanding (400 and 600) on the TR6 panels this weekend. On the panels that were wavy where I had to skim the panel and block sand (and sand and sand and sand), I found a few pinholes even after 3 coats of Evercoat Urofill. The fenders were fine, the boot / bonnet had some pin hole. Man, guide coat really shows you were you need to sand out the orange peel even in primer.

Obviously, I can take some 2 part Evercoat glaze I have on hand, and a razor and fill the pinholes, and just hit it with some 400 and 600 again to blend.

But do I have to hit it with the Urofill afterwards? Ie, if I l just fill and sand these little holes, will it show up through the BC / CC if I don't reprime?

Thanks!

Glenn

Pinholes are usually from not letting the primer flash long enough between coats. Solvent bubbles trying to work their way to the top but don't make it.
When sanding you remove the top layers and there are these nasty holes.

Without a picture it is hard to give accurate advice. Did you block sand with a coarse grit paper first to make sure the panels are straight?

The idea is to sand most of the filler off the car. You are actually trying just to fill the low spots and imperfections in the surfaces.
You should be seeing areas where you are near to the epoxy.


Once completed you can shoot another coat or two and then guide coat and block sand with 180 -220 just to remove guide coat. (this also reduces the level of build)
If it looks good, then guide coat and begin wet sanding.

Let see what other have to say I don't want to sound radical. but just a warning, trying to fill pin holes is risky. when your filling you actually trap air in the hole. then after you paint and it sets outside in the sun the air expands and creates a small bubble, that when cooled disappears. I've been through this and personally won't ever try and fill pin holes. pin holes are caused by a problem that you need to figure out usually they appear in your filler. and yes you need to do your first sanding with some 180 and a long board or block, you'll never get it flat with 400.
Jay D.

I will get some pictures after work tonight. Although with this new work from home edict, the garage is now just about 20 feet below me, but tied up in Conf Calls.

I shot the car with Orion Epoxy Primer after having it sandblasted. Than I filled and blocked the panels with Everocoat Extreme. I blocked it with 80, 180, 220 to get the panels flat (filling the low spots). Both the hood and trunk lid were quite wavy. The four fenders were in pretty good shape, and required only minimal work to get to flat.

Then I most recently shot with multiple coats of Ever-coat Eurofill. Then I sanded with 400 / 600 wet. I discovered what I'm calling pin holes when doing the wet sanding with guide coat. You can see them and feel them with a fingernail. Certainly not all over the panel. But I didn't try to count them. Maybe a dozen over the entire hood.

I found two spots on the hood, pictures below, and only one spot on trunk which is closer to picture two below, a single divot. Picture quality wasn't great, but I didn't want to deal with digging out the old camera gear for a better macro.

those are not bad, I would just fill them. usually what is called pin holes are quite deep. when sanding your hood and trunk lid be careful and not press down on the block much let the paper do the cutting. if you press to much then the metal flexes and causes the waves your getting.
Jay D.

wake74 wrote:But do I have to hit it with the Urofill afterwards? Ie, if I l just fill and sand these little holes, will it show up through the BC / CC if I don't reprime?

The short answer is yes, you should reprime once you've filled those little holes. The hardener can sometimes bleed through, so you need to isolate it. No need to reprime the whole panel - just spot the areas where you've had to fill. Then sand to blend in.

What the other guys have said is all relevant and if you're getting pinholes in filler then you do need to address the way that you're mixing it, so as to reduce the creation of air bubbles, but as hard as one tries, there will usually be a few. It doesn't sound like you have a major problem, though.

NFT5 wrote:

wake74 wrote:What the other guys have said is all relevant and if you're getting pinholes in filler then you do need to address the way that you're mixing it, so as to reduce the creation of air bubbles, but as hard as one tries, there will usually be a few. It doesn't sound like you have a major problem, though.

This project has given me a whole new appreciation for the craft part of bodywork. It's actually one of the reasons I wanted to try doing it. Something as simple as applying filler uniformly with no air, sounds like a simple task, until you try to skim a large section of panel with consistent thickness, no sloppy overlaps and no air bubbles. It looks so easy on YouTube

Thanks for the responses guys, I'll fill these with some Evercoat glazing compound, spot prime, and more sanding. I'm going to have Hulk arms when this is over.

You should purchase some Evercoat Plastic Honey https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-1249-Pl ... B002BLGKD2

You can add a little to your filler mix and it will make it much creamier and easier to spread when doing skim coats.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:You should purchase some Evercoat Plastic Honey https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-1249-Pl ... B002BLGKD2

You can add a little to your filler mix and it will make it much creamier and easier to spread when doing skim coats.

I do believe you have mentioned this to me before. I bought the shaped blocks you recommended in the same post, not sure I how I missed the "honey" additive purchase at the same time. It's not like Amazon doesn't come to the house almost daily.

Shopping for interior kits, just to let me know there is light at the end of the tunnel of sanding, sanding, sanding....