'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Do you have picture of what the base coat looked like before the clear? Something close up would help.

Did you read any of the articles on the Info Center? Gun set up and spray patterns are covered, plus air filtration/water trap systems and a number of other things to help.

As a beginner you need to accept and following the instructions of the more experienced painters. Failure to follow instructions will cost you time, money and a lot of unnecessary work.

If you don't listen to and heed the advice given, don't expect us to keep wasting time answering your questions.

This is the only picture I have of the base. I have been doing a lot of research but it went wrong somewhere I am here for direction and I will follow them. The only thing is I can only work with what I have. I don't have a spray booth, nowhere to spray inside. Equipment i have ect

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A8jiC8WrMAxUMuqa6

Can't really tell from the picture but it looks like the base went down reasonably good, but still looks rough. did you prime the cover before the base?
Jay D.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Did you read any of the articles on the Info Center? Gun set up and spray patterns are covered, plus air filtration/water trap systems and a number of other things to help.

As a beginner you need to accept and following the instructions of the more experienced painters. Failure to follow instructions will cost you time, money and a lot of unnecessary work.

If you don't listen to and heed the advice given, don't expect us to keep wasting time answering your questions.

I my self am OUT of this conversation have fun fellas!

Righto.

Heyhi1, I'm not going to harp on what some of the other guys have said, other than that you should do a bit more reading and maybe watch some YouTube videos to get a feel for what you need to be striving for.

I get that new painters are afraid of runs and inevitably go too light and from too far away, which is what I was getting at earlier. That's why we always suggest to get a practice panel and refine technique somewhat, before starting on the "big job". Maybe you've bitten off more than you can chew with a bonnet and bar on your first job, but you're having a go and that, in itself, is commendable.

Before you do anything else you'll need to sand that bar back. From what I can see it is not recoverable. Take it back to primer at least.

Right now it's the middle of the day here and I have a door and a bar to finish repair and get painted yet. I'll come back this evening and expand.....

badsix wrote:you need to tell us a little more like where were you doing the spraying. is it on the car? what clear and activator, what was the temperature. did you use a tack rag, although it looks like its gotten on it after it was sprayed? one thing for sure in the picture you need to get your spraying technique down better. maybe slow down the mixture some, maybe up the air press. you got a BAD case of orange peel. wet sand the bumper with some 600 and reclear.
I went back and looked at the picture and I don't think its dust. you couldn't get that much if you painted out in the desert in a wind storm. I think you could have a problem with your clear or activator or somewhere, I think your probably spraying It on.? it'll be interesting to see what others have to say.
Jay D.

This was a medium activator, refnishing solutions RSC220 clear coat. Rsa 226 hardner

SPRAYIT SP-33000K LVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FDMXRW/re ... 1Eb73HA8FA

This is my gun I sprayed it at 30 PSI but supposedly it's a LVlp.
Apply 2-3 full wet coats at 40-50 psi or (6-10 psi at the gun when using HVLP), allowing a 10-15 minute flash between coats at 77°F. This is what the sheet says for the clear I don't know what PSI I should use for LVLP.

badsix wrote:Can't really tell from the picture but it looks like the base went down reasonably good, but still looks rough. did you prime the cover before the base?
Jay D.

I primed before base. The primer was epoxy prime and seal, that actually went down really smooth when I had it to 600 before base I thought it was going to come out great because of how the primer laid so easily and nicely. The base was pretty good too The only thing with the base is I've never done it before so I don't know how smooth it should be after about 30 minutes of drying I had to get a little bit of a run out of the base and I hit it with 2,000 grit. The 2000 grit that I sanded was very very smooth but around that area was not really rough but rougher than the 2000 I don't know if that's normal I'm not sure what a correct layer of base should feel like

Doright wrote:

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Did you read any of the articles on the Info Center? Gun set up and spray patterns are covered, plus air filtration/water trap systems and a number of other things to help.

As a beginner you need to accept and following the instructions of the more experienced painters. Failure to follow instructions will cost you time, money and a lot of unnecessary work.

If you don't listen to and heed the advice given, don't expect us to keep wasting time answering your questions.

I my self am OUT of this conversation have fun fellas!

I've been doing a lot of you to watching and reading about this stuff and I mean a lot it's just that there's so many different variables. The basics of it is get the paint to lay down on a smooth surface that's sanded to a point that the next phase will stick. Before I primed was 220, after the primer was 600. After this point something went wrong and I don't know what it was. But I have been doing massive amount of studying and research

NFT5 wrote:Righto.

Heyhi1, I'm not going to harp on what some of the other guys have said, other than that you should do a bit more reading and maybe watch some YouTube videos to get a feel for what you need to be striving for.

I get that new painters are afraid of runs and inevitably go too light and from too far away, which is what I was getting at earlier. That's why we always suggest to get a practice panel and refine technique somewhat, before starting on the "big job". Maybe you've bitten off more than you can chew with a bonnet and bar on your first job, but you're having a go and that, in itself, is commendable.

Before you do anything else you'll need to sand that bar back. From what I can see it is not recoverable. Take it back to primer at least.
Right now it's the middle of the day here and I have a door and a bar to finish repair and get painted yet. I'll come back this evening and expand.....

Yes I'm very afraid of runs,also I don't really have a practice panel accessible. Before I send back to primer I want to figure out what I did wrong at least the bumpers on the car and I could drive around for a bit for a few days to figure out what's going on. I also have the hood I have to do so before I do the hood I don't know if I should fix the bumper first or just do the hood because the hood is flat and easier to fix. What would go in the decision-making of either go back to primer or go back to base coat because the primer coat went on good the base coat I think also went on good but The bumper is a bit darker than I would want it to be. The most confusing part about this is in the correct light there's like a brownish tint to it which tells me I didn't lay the base down enough but at the same time the whole bumper itself is darker than it should be

I forgot to mention that I was re clearing one of my headlights at the same time I did the bumper and the headlight came out smooth

heyhi1 wrote:I've been doing a lot of you to watching and reading about this stuff and I mean a lot it's just that there's so many different variables. After this point something went wrong and I don't know what it was. But I have been doing massive amount of studying and research

Yes! It is overwhelming when we all first start! AND we all make Mistakes! And most all of us Got into this to save money! only to learn YOU CANT! lol This is a VERY expensive hobby to get into and do correctly.

And This is why we HARP on The Basics!,
1. First and Foremost the single most important thing! use a correct size air compressor!
2. READ the Technical data sheets for the Products your using.
3. UNDERSTAND what you are reading! ask questions BEFORE attempting work!
4. know how to use your equipment (adjust gun). PRACTICE!
5. Get a cheap house hold cooking Timer from Wallmart for Flash times! and USE IT! Tech sheet flash times are Minimum times, they are not suggestions saying you waited 10 -15 minutes half hour 20 min. ????? you need to know exactly! what it was!
You need to know exactly what your Air pressures are! The Tech sheets air pressure and Flash times are a Guide and depending on Gun and or temp sprayed at may have to be increased or decreased as necessary by a few lbs. or longer wait times, but you have to know where its at! write it all down take notes what you mixed how it was mixed what your air pressure is, Note your Flash times write it all down! Take notes! If you want repeatable results these are not suggestions!

You are surrounded By a great Bunch of guys that KNOW there stuff they are very patient and Give out good advise freely! you must learn PATIENTS! some one will respond to your questions! I strongly suggest starting a Project thread on the Project page to keep every thing in one thread instead of having 5 or 6 threads going at once.