heyhi1 wrote:. The reason I asked this is because I went to the supply house to get a better match on my pants because this was darker and that's what the guy suggested.

i know nothing about matching pants so im definately out.

with one thing to add:

car specific forums are some of the worst forums to get painting advise. brings me a good laugh remembering reading from someone serious about his reply," you can build up to 1/4" with high build primer."
then theres the lot that swears by por15. RUN when ya read that crap.

i dont even know if id have faith in them to be able to match pants.

NFT5 wrote:

Doright wrote:Your experience trumps Mine

Not in everything.

Heyhi1, yes you can paint over the clear after sanding it. It's important, though, that you sand it back to the point where the is absolutely no texture or peel. Earlier you put up a photo of some primer that you'd sanded - that would not be good enough because I can see areas that are either low or just not sanded enough, with the peel still visible. Sand a bit then squeegee off and allow the moisture to flash off. You should be able see any spots that need extra work.

And yes, I agree. P800 wet is the better choice, even if it does make some extra work.

i saw what your talking about. I hate to get out of line but maybe using a guide coat might help.
Jay D.

I think
We need More Pics in this thread guys. I am not even sure he understands what orange peel is? Plus he has never posted more pics in the sun light! common we need some cooperation here? we need those original pics and in good light. How bad is it really?

I don't think its as bad as he thinks it is for a first timers first attempt myself. BUT there are issues that must be addressed before another attempt is made namely the water issue.

Doright wrote:we need those original pics and in good light. How bad is it really?

Pretty bad, even with the poor lighting.

Doright wrote:I don't think its as bad as he thinks it is for a first timers first attempt myself. BUT there are issues that must be addressed before another attempt is made namely the water issue.

Yep, agree 100%. I don't think that my first attempt with a spraygun was much better.

NFT5 wrote:
Yep, agree 100%. I don't think that my first attempt with a spraygun was much better.

callin myself out. this was my first spray gun
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Sipho ... /203468550

and compressor
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cabl ... /203162815
motorcycle tins.
got me the,"looks good from a quarter mile" results.

tomsteve wrote:

NFT5 wrote:
Yep, agree 100%. I don't think that my first attempt with a spraygun was much better.

callin myself out. this was my first spray gun
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Sipho ... /203468550

and compressor
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cabl ... /203162815
motorcycle tins.
got me the,"looks good from a quarter mile" results.

My First attempt was a complete which in the end came out pretty good actually. Yes I did have problems But mostly with Edge Mapping and lifting issues.
I burned up two different 40 gal 2 hp compressors in that project before I bought the 5hp 60 gal unit which I used for 20-25 years going threw three different pumps on it before getting my current forever monster.

I will put a few more pics up today but it's raining. It's really not that bad except for I totally missed the edge of the bumper where the rim goes on both sides. There is orange peel I know what that looks like It looks like an actual orange peel.
My concern is if im able to paint over the clear I have to make sure that I address the edges where I totally missed. I have to figure out how to paint that area because I had the bumper facing down so I'm pretty sure The clear only reaches where the base is. Around the fender well is pretty much only primer
Will take pictures today

heyhi1 wrote: I have to figure out how to paint that area because I had the bumper facing down

Set the bar up on a stand of some kind, like this:


It doesn't have to be a panel stand like I use - just anything to get it up off the ground and keep it stable enough to paint. Being away from the ground also means that you're not blowing dust and dirt up on to your work.

NFT5 wrote:

heyhi1 wrote: I have to figure out how to paint that area because I had the bumper facing down

Set the bar up on a stand of some kind, like this:

SAM_3677.JPG

It doesn't have to be a panel stand like I use - just anything to get it up off the ground and keep it stable enough to paint. Being away from the ground also means that you're not blowing dust and dirt up on to your work.

That's actually the way I painted it. What I'm saying is I missed around the edges by the wheel. That means I have clear coat up to a certain point and then it's primer I don't know how to approach painting that without having problems with adhesion

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4bvSfoj79VKsGWYU8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ExopwUzjofMYFozj7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BVEr5DtTUuV7aCZa9

Also have a few questions since I'm starting tomorrow. My goal is to wet sand and paint on top of the clear coat. The reason I want to go over the clear is because I know how hard it was when I first stripped the bumper down. At that point I had adhesion problems so I had no choice. It doesn't seem like I have any adhesion problems so I can approach it in a way that I don't have to spend so much time sanding. Even though I have a feeling that it would be much easier this time around since I don't have any adhesion problems
My goal is to not have adhesion problems
Problem area is in the pictures where there is primer because of how I laid the bumper and I never sprayed that area so I'm guessing I have clear coat anywhere I have base coat which raises the question how do I approach the area that's primed and not clear.

What happens if I happen to cut through the clear then what do I do. Do I take it down to base do I take it down to primer. For now these are the questions that I have to get the first step and prepping to repaint.