Doright wrote:If you have a 24hr re coat window NOTHING stops you from waiting 1-2 hrs even 3-8 hrs
You still have 24 hrs! Longer is better. Whats the Rush? take your time its not a race.

So if I do wait let's just say 3 to 8 hours, do I just use a tack rag and then clear coat? Let's say I decide to wait overnight and it's like 18 hours , just clear coat over it?

Another thing I have a question so I've been reading dry medium and wet coat depends on your speed. So when doing the test panel I was told to hold the gun at the distance I would paint at and count to one and not have a run. What if I want to do a wet coat would I count to two and not have a run

don't use the cheep s/s hardware primer you just asking for more problems. Chris will be back with you soon.
Jay D.

heyhi1 wrote: if the bumper already has epoxy primer sealer is there a certain primer I have to do for spots because I have a few different can primers that are 1k

No, please don't use those spray can primers. They may be enamel and that will ruin your day.

heyhi1 wrote:So when doing the test panel I was told to hold the gun at the distance I would paint at and count to one and not have a run. What if I want to do a wet coat would I count to two and not have a run

It's not really that simple. Depends on your gun, air pressure and speed. If you don't have a test panel, tape a piece of paper, say a metre long, on a wall and use that to test. Start by spraying the length of the paper, trying to get an even coverage, but still a bit 'see through'. So, just wet, but not thick, and certainly no runs. That you can call a light coat. Now try a little slower, full coverage wet, but, again don't worry if you can see through it a bit. That's a medium coat. If you're using a quality base then two medium coats should give you coverage that you can't see through. An economy base may need three coats.

NFT5 wrote:

heyhi1 wrote: if the bumper already has epoxy primer sealer is there a certain primer I have to do for spots because I have a few different can primers that are 1k

No, please don't use those spray can primers. They may be enamel and that will ruin your day.

heyhi1 wrote:So when doing the test panel I was told to hold the gun at the distance I would paint at and count to one and not have a run. What if I want to do a wet coat would I count to two and not have a run

It's not really that simple. Depends on your gun, air pressure and speed. If you don't have a test panel, tape a piece of paper, say a metre long, on a wall and use that to test. Start by spraying the length of the paper, trying to get an even coverage, but still a bit 'see through'. So, just wet, but not thick, and certainly no runs. That you can call a light coat. Now try a little slower, full coverage wet, but, again don't worry if you can see through it a bit. That's a medium coat. If you're using a quality base then two medium coats should give you coverage that you can't see through. An economy base may need three coats.

Ok i didn't use the primer.
I have a 24-hour window from base to clear. After 24 hours I have to scuff and recoat base before clear.
I think I want to take me time instead of doing my base and clear after 30 min. I want to time it so i can base today and clear tomorrow within the 24 hr period. This way I can look at it and make sure everything is good before I clear without rushing. Is there anything I have to do, besides tack it, when waiting that extra period.

Also what do I do if I get a run in the base which I shouldn't but in case I do like I did last time by making a mistake. Can I just hit it with maybe 1,000 grit and get the run out and go with clear or do I have to rebase it.

If I happen to get a run in the clear coat what do I do then. I'm afraid to get a run in the clear coat and then somehow sand it through the clear and start all over

There's nothing you need to do except tacking really thoroughly. Use the tacking process to check the surface, by feel. The tack cloth should glide over the whole surface. If you feel a rough spot this may be due to dry or over spray and should be addressed before you paint the clear.

Getting a run in base is usually difficult, but can happen. With difficult or intricate panels I often due a dry pass over, checking for problem areas such as difficult spots to reach and going over, in my mind how best to do these - things like supporting bars in the way or shapes that may make it hard to get an even coat. Then, when I actually pull the trigger, I have a plan in mind. Multiple light coats are usually better than one heavy coat.

excilent tip on the dry run with the gun.
Jay D.

heyhi1 wrote:I hit it with two coats of primer. There's a few spots that I have a question about. I guess you would call them low spots but I could clearly see when I'm looking at the bumper while it's primed that it could have been sanded a little better and I missed it. Are these going to be trouble spots.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/cz4aoon7SvWxivCU9

again this is the only way I know how to put up pictures I've been looking for another way

I don't mean to butt in, but I got lost in how this blem was fix or if he did fix it, and how. he was talking spot priming and also wondering about his final sanding profile. there's a lot of work going into this post, I just want to see this turn out good.
Jay D.

badsix wrote:

heyhi1 wrote:I hit it with two coats of primer. There's a few spots that I have a question about. I guess you would call them low spots but I could clearly see when I'm looking at the bumper while it's primed that it could have been sanded a little better and I missed it. Are these going to be trouble spots.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/cz4aoon7SvWxivCU9

again this is the only way I know how to put up pictures I've been looking for another way

I don't mean to butt in, but I got lost in how this blem was fix or if he did fix it, and how. he was talking spot priming and also wondering about his final sanding profile. there's a lot of work going into this post, I just want to see this turn out good.
Jay D.

I ended up sanding the bumper down 180 220, prime 2 coats ,wet sand 600 and i just got done with 3 coats of base. I haven't done the clear yet but I think I have to do another coat because there's a few spots that looks shinier than the rest of the bumper

Usually the shinier spots on the base are where you went a bit wetter/heavier. Let it flash a bit more and it should even out. Or do a single final coat, very even.

Can we have some pictures to see how you're progressing?

NFT5 wrote:Usually the shinier spots on the base are where you went a bit wetter/heavier. Let it flash a bit more and it should even out. Or do a single final coat, very even.

Can we have some pictures to see how you're progressing?

I'm going to post a picture in a minute I got to go take a few. Something wasn't right again. The base coat came out rough. Wasn't as bad as the first time but it was still rough to the point that it wasn't acceptable so I wet sanded 2000 and now it's even. I also ran out of paint but I got to put three pretty decent coats. Now I'm hoping that I can clear without respraying base.