2 year hiatus now back on project

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:25 am
I painted my MGB two years ago and then divorce, remarriage (to the same woman) and time of not back at my trying to salvage my paint job.

1. I am a 1st time painter and had lots of orange peel in the three heavy coats of clear that I put on.
2. So I am wet sanding and buffing now to get it out.
3. I wet sanded with 1500 and then 2000 grit before
Questions
1. I did see a tiny bit of primer under the paint at the edge of my boot lid (trunk). Am I toast and need to paint the edge?
2. How do you prevent scratching when wet sanding. **** paper wants to bunch up and then scratch.
3. When buffing I threw compound all over the shop. Am I using too much (obviously) but it dries and disappears in seconds. I am using foam buffing wheels on 10" buffer.



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:33 am
If the peel was pretty bad, 1500 may not cut it "flat". You 'll see when you buff it. You may want to go back to 1000 or even 800. As for scratches, I use a hose or water bottle to constantly wash down the sanding sludge. Soaking the paper in water with some ivory liquid soap helps it from loading up, and sands smoother than just plain water. Squeegee off the sanding junk often, even when rinsing. If you drop the paper, throw it out!

Yes, you must be using too much compound. Experience will show you eventually how much works without being excessive.
An airbrush is a big help if you are only touching up a tiny amount of sand-through.



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 10:56 am
:goodpost: to add to the post above what kind of buffer are you using? I have two and both are variable speed but yes its a messy job. you can put a stream of compound across the panel then spread it around with the pad NOT turning then start buffing. you should have touched up the light area before you did your buffing. just spray some base in that area then spot clear the area then do your cut and buff. I hate buffing I would have cut the O/P off with some 500 then 600 and recleared.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 12:23 pm
I really hate OP but I am terrified to do it again. On the other hand it may not be a bad idea, "practice makes perfect"??!
I was lucky enough to avoid runs so guess I was going to light. I have heard you need to really wet it down to the point just BEFORE it runs..
Looking at a full car cut and buff I may be leaning to do it over especially since with all my compound curves and complicated surfaces I am sure I will have more "burn thru".
My buffer is a HF variable speed 7". I bought some nice foam applicator pads and using 3M compound.
Good news is the area I did looks like glass



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 3:45 pm
That's a good polisher for speed control. I don't know about it being from Horrible Freight though :rotfl:
Tell us what you did that made the O/P so bad. temp range of you activator and reducer if you used any, temperature of the room when sprayed, gun type and air pressure at the gun. brand name of the clear.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:52 pm
This was the first time I sprayed a car so not sure what I did. I am not sure it is horrible because I cut it pretty quickly with 1500, then 2000 and buffed to mirror finish. I have some before pics but not an after on my phone.
It was hot when I sprayed and had basic HF spray gun. Over all I believe it was operator error not equipment :shock:
Attachments
IMG_0546.JPG
IMG_0547.JPG



Top Contributor
Posts: 6777
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm
Location: OREGON COAST
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 9:47 pm
hot weather can be a pain. you have to make adjustments with your mix to get it right.
looks good though. :clap:
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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