Hi Guys!
Me and my son are restoring two 65 & 68 Chevy Trucks, so I'll be just sanding some areas, and replacing some areas, so some bare metal will be exposed.
My questions are:
What's the correct Primer/Painting method?
Do I use Epoxy Primer over JUST bare metal? Do I Bondo over the Epoxy Primer?
When do I use 2K Primer (the "High Build" stuff)?
I wish someone made understanding this easy, lol.
Thanks for any help!
Ricky

All bare metal needs epoxy primer before paint.
Body shops use etch primer in place of epoxy for speed
but most fillers shouldn't be used under or over etch.
Filler can go on bare metal first or over epoxy, your choice.
2K (urethane primer, or high build) only needed for blocking irregularities
flat or smooth, like after bodywork.
If panel is flat and smooth, 2K not needed.
Epoxy is great to paint over as is (within the recoat window)
2K is great to paint over, but needs to be sanded first
and usually a little longer to cure first to reduce shrinkage.

Lets start with what you have?
What kind of Air compressor do you have??? How big is it? how many CFM is it??? 1st and foremost! Its the most important tool in Painting anything especially a car or truck!
Too many people think what they have is Big enough air compressor only to find out the hard way that what they have is way too small to be considered big enough to paint a car. You need Air volume CFM NOT PSI!
5 hp 12-18 CFM free air dual stage with a 60 Gal tank is a Bare minimum I would consider big enough.

From there you need a water trap, air filter and a Drier and a regulator and a Pressure gauge on your Gun, Then you need to know what Fluid tip is in your gun? 2.2, 1.8, 1.4 ???

I suggest reading the stickys at the top of the page of this forums as well. starting with this one :
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16694

JCCLARK wrote:All bare metal needs epoxy primer before paint.
Body shops use etch primer in place of epoxy for speed
but most fillers shouldn't be used under or over etch.
Filler can go on bare metal first or over epoxy, your choice.
2K (urethane primer, or high build) only needed for blocking irregularities
flat or smooth, like after bodywork.
If panel is flat and smooth, 2K not needed.
Epoxy is great to paint over as is (within the recoat window)
2K is great to paint over, but needs to be sanded first
and usually a little longer to cure first to reduce shrinkage.

Thank you.
So, once I fix/repair a section and do some Bondo work and sand it down until I'm satisfied with the smoothness/straightness, THEN spray with Epoxy Primer??
I probably won't be ready to paint the whole truck until I have all the bodywork done, so it'll be WAY over the "within the recoat window" (7 days). So, should I just use regular primer for now? Then once I get all the body work done, do a final sand, then shoot the whole truck with Epoxy Primer, and paint within the "recoat window"?
Hope I didn't loose you, lol.
I also do plan on using some Rust Converter on the underside of all my bodywork. Is that a good idea?
Thanks a ton man!

Doright wrote:Lets start with what you have?
What kind of Air compressor do you have??? How big is it? how many CFM is it???

I have a pretty big compressor. ( I think it's big, lol)
It's a Husky 60 Gall / 3.2 HP / 10.2 SCFM @ 90 psi / 135 Max psi
It stabilizes at 90 psi.
I do need a better water catcher! But I'll worry bout that when the time comes to primer and paint.
As I repair section by section, I'll be using Spray Can Primer. Any recommendations on a good Can Primer?
Thanks a bunch!

Here's what I'm workin on...top pic is when I found them.
Bottom pic is 3 days later, sittin in my driveway!

First you need to decide if you are doing full blown restorations or just dressing them up to drive for a while?

Older vehicles that have sat for a while almost always have more rust that what the eye sees.
To bring them back to better than new will require preparation, tools and time.

Check out the Info Center for articles to help get an overview of the process.
https://www.autobody101.com/content/art ... ould-know/

Also, look in the Members Projects sections for older truck restorations.

Epoxy primer is the only truly waterproof primer, so if you plan to store it for a while after primer, epoxy is the only choice. Once you return to work on it, all you have to do is sand the epoxy, I also recommend a coat of epoxy mixed as a sealer( 1:1:1) before paint
over the old epoxy, that would be best for maximum adhesion.

Rust converter is OK as long as you clean it thoroughly afterward
and rid it of any residue.
I would sand it again too.

be careful with the rust converters there's a lot of hokis pokis with them.
Jay D.

I agree with him, you're better off staying away from them.

And about rattle can primer, most are lacquer, which is the worst thing
you can use.
They are not made for bare metal and in fact are like a sponge that soaks water up.
They shrink for days, even weeks, and have the least durability than anything
out there. Stay away from anything lacquer based. It's a 1K product.

There are some new 2K primers in a can that mixes the activator with the paint
as you spray it. The can has two chambers inside.
I haven't tried one but it has to be way better than a 1K lacquer primer.
I suspect it to be expensive.

Yes, I've been looking at the Epoxy Primer spray cans that you "pop" the Activator Seal on the bottom and shake it up. I'm guessing this would be the easiest primer for me since I'll be working on small sections at a time.

And I thought 2K Primer was just "High Build" primer...I wasn't aware that it needed activator.

So, to clear this up for me and make my life easy...when working on a section of the truck...once I'm finished and it's down to bare metal...can I do my Bondo work and spray some 2K Primer over the worked area? Then, once I'm done with the bodywork on the whole truck, go back and sand everything and then shoot the whole truck with Epoxy Primer, then Paint?