Hi All!
I hope you are having a great day. So, I am a new painter, and my first job is to get the most professional paint job I can muster onto my 1948 G.E. Refridge. It was going so well, but I hit some major issues maybe people can give me advice on.
Dried Lake Bed of Base Coat:
One piece I painted, I had primere'd, wet sanded with 400, shot the base coat on super smooth, looked fire, and came back 10 minutes later for another coat, and bam, it looked like a dried up lake bed in a baseball size oval section. Not the entire piece did this. So I let it dry about 2 hours, and wet sanded it again to smooth base coat. I could still see the veins, but when I used a light, I could tell they were no longer physically there. I figured another coat of base would be the end of it. However, it came back just as before. Please let me know what I need to do to fix this! Thanks!
Advice wanted on how my base coat came out:
I am curious what I did wrong. My base coat seemed to go on very smooth. I dialed the gun in starting Wide open on all settings, and dialed it back to get a football shape about 8" long. Seemed beautiful, and in some areas I got a very smooth finish, almost like you would expect out of a spray paint can. However, on the top of my fridge, I would have to spray straight down from the top side (like you would to paint the roof of a car), and I think I may have held the gun too far away as the texture was a bit rough. It reminded me of 800-1500 grid sand paper. Almost enough to not let me tack rag it. I cleared extremely heavy over it, and it is now smooth even to a tack rag. I figure cutting and buffing might take it the rest of the way. However, this leads to my next question....
What do I do now if I want to spot repair something?
So now that I have cleared the entire project, and I am to the cutting and buffing stage, what do I need to do to fix any spots I do not like?
For example, if the roof of the fridge does not buff out well. Do I take the clear coat off, the base off, and respray base, and clear?
Should I tape off?
How do I blend the new base coat (it would come from the same can, so not sure if blending is even a thing. Would I even need to?
How do I blend the clear? Or do I just wet sand and buff the unevenness out of the clear?
Last questions I have are just asking for tips and trips to not take too much clear off when wet-sanding and buffing...?
THANKS AGAIN!!!
New Painter, First job, much stress...
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Let's start with the paint problems first.
What materials are you using? Brand of Wax and Grease Remover? Primer(s)? Base? Clear? 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Non-Lurker
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2020 11:13 am Country: USA |
What materials are you using? Eastwood Gun (borrowed from dad) Brand of Wax and Grease Remover? Eastwood Pre-Prep Primer(s)? Finish1 FP410 2K Primer Base? Eastwood GM Regal Red 2 Stage Clear? I forget... I will report back once I get home. |
Top Contributor
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Pictures would go a Long way Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Can I use this? If only my guns could spray like a spray can....
Forgotten what a fry up looks like, mate? Seriously, what you had is called a "fry up" and is caused when a paint which is high in thinners content, is sprayed over a base which is incompatible. In such instances the original paint needs to be isolated or sealed with a sealer, usually epoxy, before being over-coated. The clear coat will have done this, so if you wanted to improve the look then you could just lightly sand back the clear, without going through, then apply a light coat of base and reclear. Chris
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