New Painter, First job, much stress...

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 11:35 am
Hi All!

I hope you are having a great day. So, I am a new painter, and my first job is to get the most professional paint job I can muster onto my 1948 G.E. Refridge. It was going so well, but I hit some major issues maybe people can give me advice on.

Dried Lake Bed of Base Coat:
One piece I painted, I had primere'd, wet sanded with 400, shot the base coat on super smooth, looked fire, and came back 10 minutes later for another coat, and bam, it looked like a dried up lake bed in a baseball size oval section. Not the entire piece did this. So I let it dry about 2 hours, and wet sanded it again to smooth base coat. I could still see the veins, but when I used a light, I could tell they were no longer physically there. I figured another coat of base would be the end of it. However, it came back just as before. Please let me know what I need to do to fix this! Thanks!

Advice wanted on how my base coat came out:
I am curious what I did wrong. My base coat seemed to go on very smooth. I dialed the gun in starting Wide open on all settings, and dialed it back to get a football shape about 8" long. Seemed beautiful, and in some areas I got a very smooth finish, almost like you would expect out of a spray paint can. However, on the top of my fridge, I would have to spray straight down from the top side (like you would to paint the roof of a car), and I think I may have held the gun too far away as the texture was a bit rough. It reminded me of 800-1500 grid sand paper. Almost enough to not let me tack rag it. I cleared extremely heavy over it, and it is now smooth even to a tack rag. I figure cutting and buffing might take it the rest of the way. However, this leads to my next question....

What do I do now if I want to spot repair something?

So now that I have cleared the entire project, and I am to the cutting and buffing stage, what do I need to do to fix any spots I do not like?

For example, if the roof of the fridge does not buff out well. Do I take the clear coat off, the base off, and respray base, and clear?

Should I tape off?

How do I blend the new base coat (it would come from the same can, so not sure if blending is even a thing. Would I even need to?

How do I blend the clear? Or do I just wet sand and buff the unevenness out of the clear?

Last questions I have are just asking for tips and trips to not take too much clear off when wet-sanding and buffing...?

THANKS AGAIN!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 2:20 pm
Let's start with the paint problems first.

What materials are you using?
Brand of Wax and Grease Remover?
Primer(s)?
Base?
Clear?
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:01 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Let's start with the paint problems first.

What materials are you using?
Brand of Wax and Grease Remover?
Primer(s)?
Base?
Clear?


What materials are you using?
Eastwood Gun (borrowed from dad)
Brand of Wax and Grease Remover?
Eastwood Pre-Prep
Primer(s)?
Finish1 FP410 2K Primer
Base?
Eastwood GM Regal Red 2 Stage
Clear?
I forget... I will report back once I get home.



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 11:19 am
Phoenix Fab wrote:Dried Lake Bed of Base Coat:
One piece I painted, I had primere'd, wet sanded with 400, shot the base coat on super smooth, looked fire, and came back 10 minutes later for another coat, and bam, it looked like a dried up lake bed in a baseball size oval section. Not the entire piece did this. So I let it dry about 2 hours, and wet sanded it again to smooth base coat. I could still see the veins, but when I used a light, I could tell they were no longer physically there. I figured another coat of base would be the end of it. However, it came back just as before. Please let me know what I need to do to fix this! Thanks!



Pictures would go a Long way
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:33 pm
Phoenix Fab wrote: I dialed the gun in starting Wide open on all settings, and dialed it back to get a football shape about 8" long. Seemed beautiful, and in some areas I got a very smooth finish, almost like you would expect out of a spray paint can.


:shocked: Can I use this? If only my guns could spray like a spray can....

Doright wrote:Pictures would go a Long way


Forgotten what a fry up looks like, mate?

Seriously, what you had is called a "fry up" and is caused when a paint which is high in thinners content, is sprayed over a base which is incompatible. In such instances the original paint needs to be isolated or sealed with a sealer, usually epoxy, before being over-coated. The clear coat will have done this, so if you wanted to improve the look then you could just lightly sand back the clear, without going through, then apply a light coat of base and reclear.
Chris

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