I have a hood from a 1961 Chevy pickup that I am going to strip, prep and paint to match my ’63 Suburban. I am going to send the hood out to a Sacramento CA shop to strip and epoxy. I have done most of the hammer/dolly work already.

The hood has three bolt-on braces on the underside. The hood steel is fairly thick compared to today’s vehicles.

Am I Okay to remove the braces prior to sending the hood out for blasting?

There is some rubber material placed between the hood and the braces, is it just thin rubber that I can purchase (somewhere?)

I'd be leery of removing the brace before taking it to the blaster. Don't want the hood to twist around in transit, or even while being blasted. If your guy is really careful, yes, but if you don't know, leave it in, then remove it at home and DA it under the brace.
I've cut rubber sheet down and glued it between bracing and sheet metal. It's available in all different thickness's. An easier method, but not "old school" looking, is to use anti-flutter foam. Comes in those 2 tube packages. Usually those products are a bit expensive, but you may be able to sub spray foam insulation from a hardware store.

Ford trucks of that era had the hood bracing attached with
panel bonding adhesive, using a 6" strip of glue every 12-14"

Those big old over-fender hoods needed something to
prevent vibration...

chopolds wrote:I'd be leery of removing the brace before taking it to the blaster. Don't want the hood to twist around in transit, or even while being blasted. If your guy is really careful, yes, but if you don't know, leave it in, then remove it at home and DA it under the brace.
I've cut rubber sheet down and glued it between bracing and sheet metal. It's available in all different thickness's. An easier method, but not "old school" looking, is to use anti-flutter foam. Comes in those 2 tube packages. Usually those products are a bit expensive, but you may be able to sub spray foam insulation from a hardware store.

If ChopOlds says to leave the braces on, then that is what I will do!

Do you have more info on the anti-flutter stuff? I don't own anything that stays stock. This 63 Burb is getting the typical GSI front end, notched and bagged, 17" steelies and wide whites all powered by an LS.

thats going to be awesome, i really like the old 60 Chevy's. how are you going to send it? i hope it isn't a freight truck i wouldn't send a cannon ball on one.
Jay D.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/produc ... super-fast

https://www.lord.com/products-and-solut ... g-material

Ohhhh......hadn't seen that 231 stuff. I'll have some places for that when I get inside my lower back firewall area......

chopolds wrote:https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/lord-fusor-flexible-foam-super-fast

https://www.lord.com/products-and-solut ... g-material

i've used other Lord-Fusor products and very happy with them.
Jay D.

badsix wrote:thats going to be awesome, i really like the old 60 Chevy's. how are you going to send it? i hope it isn't a freight truck i wouldn't send a cannon ball on one.
Jay D.

No, I will have my warehouse guy take the hood up to the blaster on one of our flatbed trucks. It will be sitting on some nice warm and fuzzy moving blankets over cardboard.

I purchased the hood from a guy in Alabama, took him almost two months to ship it. Then instead of palatalizing it correctly, he shrink wrapped it and sent it by Greyhound! Hence the metal work that I needed to do that I shouldn't have needed to do.

This will be my biggest paint project to date. You guys are slowly getting me to grow my balls and attack larger projects. I started this stuff a few years ago to do piano black finishes on sub enclosures that I build. Still haven't done a piano black sub yet!!

Thanks to all for the help!

chopolds wrote:https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/lord-fusor-flexible-foam-super-fast

https://www.lord.com/products-and-solut ... g-material

Thanks, if I use the Fusor 231, do I not add the rubber? Does it replace the rubber?