I waited 2 years between Primer and Basecoat!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 5:55 pm
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NFT5 wrote:Check your TDS for the 'window' that you can coat that epoxy within, without needing to scuff or sand. Often 24 hours but sometimes a few days - every product is a bit different.

Unfortunately the TDS is a little vague. No mention of the window. I will go by 24 hours and make sure I plan my painting steps accordingly.

Thanks for your input.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 7:56 pm
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I spent the today painting some of the many black pieces for my Honda build. It was the first time I'd sprayed basecoat and clear coat. I started with the epoxy sealer and 60mins later did base then 60mins later clear. It came out a little inconsistent, some of the pieces are perfect, even coat, shiny like glass. Others are almost mat looking. And some are a little of both? some have orange peel. I think I just need more practice. Tomorrow i'm attempting the frame.

Just curious after I wet sand how would I buff these smaller angular pieces?

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 8:39 pm
crabbycustoms wrote:Just curious after I wet sand how would I buff these smaller angular pieces?


With extreme difficulty.

It may be possible using polishing attachments for something like a Dremel or maybe even a die grinder, but it will be hard. Better solution would be just to sand and re-clear.

Inconsistent finish comes from not having the gun set up correctly and from spraying at varying distances. It can also happen when overspray from painting one facet or piece falls on another. You have to plan your attack when painting small pieces like this, or do them more quickly so that overspray melts in. A slower hardener and/or thinner may also help.

Is this a daily driver? If so I'd question whether base coat /clear coat is the best solution for suspension and other underbody parts. Chassis black or even an industrial coating will be easier to apply whilst offering better durability and chip resistance.
Chris



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2020 7:23 am
NFT5 wrote:
crabbycustoms wrote:Just curious after I wet sand how would I buff these smaller angular pieces?


Inconsistent finish comes from not having the gun set up correctly and from spraying at varying distances. It can also happen when overspray from painting one facet or piece falls on another.

Is this a daily driver? If so I'd question whether base coat /clear coat is the best solution for suspension and other underbody parts. Chassis black or even an industrial coating will be easier to apply whilst offering better durability and chip resistance.


This is probably what happened as I painted all the pieces at once and at varying distances.
I will research a chassis black/industrial coating today as durability is a must.
Thanks you've saved me once again, if I had painted the frame today it would have been a nightmare trying to remove it all.



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:09 pm
Everything has been going much smoother, with practice i'm starting to get really nice results.

However I had a situation today when I was preparing to spray the clearcoat and when I pulled the trigger halfway to regulate the pressure suddenly the pressure in the cup got excessive and forced all the clear to spew from the lid. I was using the 3M PPS system and the pressure was so built up that the cup started to bulge.

Any ideas on what could cause this? I've searched but can't seem to find any info?

Thanks!!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:21 pm
Loose aircap or loose needle packing seal.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:57 pm
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NFT5 wrote:Loose aircap or loose needle packing seal.


I disassembled the packing mechanism and gave it a good clean. Worked like a charm.

I painted the frame today and it worked out perfectly.

I ended up sticking with the base coat/clear coat for the black parts as the chassis black had to go on bare metal and I couldn't imagine going back to bare metal. Anyways now I know for the next project.

Thanks again for all of your help!



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:43 am
As I begin to reassemble I'm already starting to see your point about how delicate the paint is. I've chipped several small areas and I'm wondering the best method for touch-up?

Use the original base paint (without the clear it doesn't quite match the sheen) or maybe just use Testors glossy black model paint?

Just curious how you would approach it?

Thanks!



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 11:53 am
I use an Iwata Airbrush with BC/CC for small touch ups.
As it never fails when restoring an old car putting stuff together the Odd scrape or scratch always happens.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 8:50 am
Doright wrote:I use an Iwata Airbrush with BC/CC for small touch ups.
As it never fails when restoring an old car putting stuff together the Odd scrape or scratch always happens.


Thanks Dennis. I went out and got a cheap set on sale at the local Canadian Tire. I was also struggling to paint my small parts as my big gun was just blowing the pieces all over so this is the perfect solution to get the little parts and do the touch up work.
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