I waited 2 years between Primer and Basecoat!

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 11:54 am
Hi,
2 years ago I started restoring a 70's era Japanese motorcycle. I sandblasted the metal parts and applied 2-3 coats of PR401 Pure Reflections DTS 2.1 VOC gray Primer. Now 2 years later I'm hoping to paint with a 2 stage base and then clear.

Is this even possible after so long? would it be enough to just sand the primer and then paint the base? would it help to sand it and then shoot another layer of primer first?

Thanks for any help.



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 8:59 pm
I'd sand/scuff it, put down some reduced epoxy as a sealer and then proceed if all looks good.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 10:12 pm
If the parts have been stored in a clean and dry environment then a light sand should be all that is necessary. Adding a coat of reduced epoxy, as suggested above is good insurance.
Chris



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:34 am
NFT5 wrote:If the parts have been stored in a clean and dry environment then a light sand should be all that is necessary. Adding a coat of reduced epoxy, as suggested above is good insurance.


That's great news! thanks guys for the info. Yes the parts have been in my basement so they appear in good shape.

When you say add a coat of "reduced" epoxy do you mean add more reducer than the instruction would specify?

Thanks again!



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:55 am
Well depends on the epoxy you are using. One I use is activated and reducer is only added to thin it out to use as a sealer (typically to seal in any filler work, 2K build, etc etc). See if yours specifies in the p-sheet. There is nothing wrong with putting another layer of regular epoxy on it after sanding if it's laid down smooth enough. It's more of an adhesion for your basecoat now whether you just sand and go or add another coat of primer but Mr. NFT5 can verify.



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 12:17 pm
:goodpost: ALL ABOVE. just check the information sheet for your epoxy and mix as a sealer, you'll be good.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 12:42 pm
caspertruck wrote:Well depends on the epoxy you are using. One I use is activated and reducer is only added to thin it out to use as a sealer (typically to seal in any filler work, 2K build, etc etc). See if yours specifies in the p-sheet. There is nothing wrong with putting another layer of regular epoxy on it after sanding if it's laid down smooth enough. It's more of an adhesion for your basecoat now whether you just sand and go or add another coat of primer but Mr. NFT5 can verify.


Thank you for your assistance gentleman. I just went out and purchased BESA F/286/2 Epoxy and E-91 Hardener.
on the P spec sheet it doesn't mention reducing but the salesmen said no problem and sold me a generic urethane reducer. I will mix 2:1:1. and shoot with 1.4 tip.

Thank you again for your time, invaluable.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 1:13 am
crabbycustoms wrote:I will mix 2:1:1


If there are no specified thinning ratios, I'd start with 2:1:0.25 and see how that looks/sprays. If it's a bit thick you can always reduce it a little more. Hard to do the opposite. :wink:
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 1:56 pm
NFT5 wrote:
crabbycustoms wrote:I will mix 2:1:1


If there are no specified thinning ratios, I'd start with 2:1:0.25 and see how that looks/sprays. If it's a bit thick you can always reduce it a little more. Hard to do the opposite. :wink:


Thanks! I ended up doing that and it turned out really nice, it looks smooth as glass.

Can I now just spray the top coat directly or do I need to scuff sand the epoxy sealer now?

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 5:00 pm
Check your TDS for the 'window' that you can coat that epoxy within, without needing to scuff or sand. Often 24 hours but sometimes a few days - every product is a bit different.
Chris
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