First time DIY paint job. Old dry paint chunks spraying out.
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This is where buying bargain brand paint bites you in the butt.
1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Yes and no. I've had tinters in my relatively expensive Cromax system go bad and get those same little lumps. Turned out it was mixer lids that weren't properly sealing but the end result was a bit of a nightmare, especially trying to work out how lumps so big managed to get through a 190 micron filter. I still don't know.
It's bad luck, but can happen to anyone. As for the colour in the new tin, shake and stir both tins thoroughly then take the upturned lid of one and drop a drop of paint from the other into the paint on the inside of the lid. If there is a difference you should see it straight away. If the difference is small then mix the old paint with the new - that will make it even closer - with a white probably close enough that you wouldn't see, especially since you're doing BC/CC and can blend into adjacent panels if need be. By the way, don't be afraid of blending, especially with white. It's just painting the edge next to the panel you've done and then reducing the amount gradually over the panel so that the other edge has no new colour on it. Then clear over the whole lot. One other thing that comes to mind is that when I had the problem it was only apparent when painting 2K (single stage) but not with BC/CC. Given that OP has cleared over this I'm wondering if some (or most?) of the problem is just dirt/dust/fibres. For example, was a full paint suit worn when painting? Chris
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I either have really good luck or really bad luck there is no in between. No paint suit was worn but I'm going the wear one next time. I put both paints on a piece of cardboard next to each other and they are close the new paint is maybe a little brighter and less dingy but still hard to tell. Since all my other panels have clear coat on them already and being that now I dont have enough paint to repaint the car again can I blend base coat on top of clear coat? In other words the roof, quarters, door jams and rear of the car are still in primer now but the hood, doors, fenders, hatch, headlight buckets, flip up louvers, gas door, front valance and spoiler have all been hit with base and clear so how would i blend? Also if it is bad paint is it a good idea to blend it with good paint? The plan was to paint the rest of the car with the same paint and clear, then put all the panels on and clear everything together. I'm limited on space and have to do everything in stages in my 1 car booth. |
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Yesterday I was looking at the panels for the first time in 2 weeks as they have been covered up outside in my backyard, they really don't look too bad for a first time paint job, I mean I have black beard hairs in about 4 different panels, i have a few runs/drips which i planned on nibbling out over the winter it's just these **** dry paint chunks that sucks. I'm wondering if I just did a panel at a time and sanded down the nibs and the drips and re cleared everything if I would be ok. I actually do need to reclear some areas anyway as there are areas that look wet and other areas that didnt get enough clear and look a little sandy so with that said I plan on putting more clear at some point anyway as there is only 2 coats on there now.
This Saturday I'm thinking of hitting the car with the new 32oz of base and then spray clear .I just want to do it right and not dig myself into a deeper hole though. |
Absolutely.
You sure can. I do it every day. Just scuff with grey Scotchbrite or sand the blend area with P800 wet or finer. Start at the edge that adjoins the new panel and spray about 1/3 of the way across the blend panel, reducing your coverage gradually by releasing the trigger as you turn the gun outwards. For the second coat go a bit beyond the first coat so that the change is gradual. There should be no base at all at the far edge of your blend panel. On a white it's really easy, much trickier with a metallic or a candy, but doable, nonetheless. Here's one I did recently. Front door damaged from door handle to edge adjoining guard. Difficult colour, very transparent red that I couldn't really get right. Blend to rear door and to guard. Can't see the blend? Nor can I, and I know where I put it. Same car, in the booth and still masked up. You can't see the blend on the panel but look at the overspray on the masking and see how it fades away to nothing. That's what you have to aim for.
Kind of depends on how bad it is and how desperate you are. I was able to use most of the tinters that went seedy by using in base coat mixes but couldn't use in 2K. Your call. Chris
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Looks really good NFTS. I know alot of you guys have experience and can paint cars like second nature but for me I have been moving along snail speed and still facing problems, I mean to get to this stage it has taken me 5 years and I still only drove the car around the block once in all that time, tomorrow is the big day.
I was just going to paint everything on the car with out the panels like the jams and roof in the same session making it hard to blend anything with out the panels on the car and didnt want tape lines in the jams. Question about denibbing the panels, should I put more clear on THEN start the denibbing process for a final result? Or go through all the panels as they are now, remove the runs, nibs and maybe hair somehow and then reclear followed by final cut and buff? |
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Ok need some advice at this point. Last night I sprayed all the NEW basecoat and it came out great almost perfect.. They only sent me 32oz and made me pay for it, I used all of it up I am ready for clear coat and have about 6 more hours in my 24 hour window to spray clear. Here is the thing, it looks like 2 different colors almost unless the clear on the bad paint makes it darker what do you guys think on the match?
In this picture you can see seeded bad paint which they are saying it's all my fault and it's good paint. I did everything the same used the same gun and the new base came out great. I thought about blending with the old paint that I still have but I'm worried that I might add more crappy seeded paint to my car that looks good now I'm also worried that I might screw something up trying to blend as I have never blended before. TCP GLOBAL should have sent me a new gallon of paint but they are giving me a hard time. I'm not sure if I should stop at this point and wait till next year to paint the car, resand everything buy good paint through a legit outfit and do everything the same color. Its about to start getting cold here on the north coast and I'm tired of dealing with TCP Global. |
I would take the second option with the intent of not having to clear a second time if avoidable. If you do go through and have to dust some base over a rub through then you can while you're flow coating. Flow coating is putting on two medium wet coats of slightly overthinned clear over the top of existing clear. It allows you teven out the surface and clear over clear always goes on smoother than clear over base. To prep for this process you need to remove any runs and denib then evenly sand with P1000 to P1200 wet, taking out as much of the excess peel as possible. The new clear will lay much flatter.
White with clear always looks darker than without. You can see any colour difference by putting a few drops on something and then a few drops from the other tin next to it, so that they touch, then look at the difference along the join. You'll never see the difference if the spots are separated, or in a photo. Chris
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I ended up reverse blending, I blended in some of the old base color around the edges where ever there will be a panel butted up. It came out ok but with a some more bad seeded paint but I didnt use too much, just enough to blend. I then hit the car with 3 coats of clear. Now that the jams are all painted and cleared, I plan on mounting everything back on the car this week and I suppose starting the denib process on the panels that were cleared a few weeks ago. The reason I need to reclear is because there are some spots on the panels that did not get enough clear and they look and feel sandy in that spot, I'm assuming I need to sand those areas smooth? and the cake on some more clear in those spots or rather just recoat everything again as a whole with all the panels on. Could I dip a tooth pic in base color and carefully put it over a black hair then reclear over it lol? I think there might be a few that are on the first coat of clear and buried pretty good. Can I use a DA to go over the entire car to get rid of the rough nibs and get it smooth to the touch then reclear? |
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Also, should I be using any compound and a buffer if I plan on spraying more clear over everything? Didn't know if the compound would act as a oil and the clear wouldn't stick. Just getting my ducks in a row before hitting it head on.
Thanks |
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