First time DIY paint job. Old dry paint chunks spraying out.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2020 9:13 pm
Scuff it with gray scotchbrite pad until dull.
Clean with W&G remover (spray on and wipe off with clean towel before it dries) then wait 30 minutes or more.
Shoot 3 more coats of clear, waiting required time between coats and let cure for the recommended time while reading the Cut and Buff Section very carefully.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2020 11:29 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Scuff it with gray scotchbrite pad until dull.
Clean with W&G remover (spray on and wipe off with clean towel before it dries) then wait 30 minutes or more.
Shoot 3 more coats of clear, waiting required time between coats and let cure for the recommended time while reading the Cut and Buff Section very carefully.



What about the runs and nibs I have now? Should I razor blade / sand the runs flat, and take care of the big nibs first by sanding them? Or just scuff everything the way it is now with a gray scotch brite, W&G , and hit it with 3 coats of clear?

Using a paint stick and 600 grit I sanded down a run on my spoiler so it was smooth and hit it with more clear, even though I felt nothing when running my hand over it you could still see the off color line from the run under the clear.

Not sure if it matters but I used a white epoxy primer sealer under the base that was almost the same color as the base.

Sorry, just making sure I understand so I dont screw it up even more haha. :flatten:



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 3:59 pm
Been working alot but this weekend I was going to work on the car and hopefully spray the clear as the weather is starting to get cooler and would like to get that out of the way soon then take my time getting it nice.

But as asked before should I be getting the panels smooth to touch and denibbed before I start spraying clear? I know I asked this before but got a few different suggestions and not sure which one to go with.

What is a good process or order to get these panels ready for more clear? Again there are a few spots that are rough and sandy and other spots that are caked with clear and look decent from feet away but have visual nibs and you can feel them poking through when running your hand over the panels.

Can I just use a flat Durablock and 600 and go over the entire car every inch with it and then reapply clear?

Thanks I appreciate it.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2020 6:24 am
Robo999 wrote:[
What about the runs and nibs I have now? Should I razor blade / sand the runs flat, and take care of the big nibs first by sanding them? Or just scuff everything the way it is now with a gray scotch brite, W&G , and hit it with 3 coats of clear?

Using a paint stick and 600 grit I sanded down a run on my spoiler so it was smooth and hit it with more clear, even though I felt nothing when running my hand over it you could still see the off color line from the run under the clear.

what i do on runs is spread glazing putty over/around them- spread it out beyond the run. then sand with a hard block backer.that way only the run is being sanded on and not any surrounding clear. when all the putty is gone i know the run is gone.

what id do to the whole car before more clear is a hard block and 600 grit to denib then scuff like coronet mentioned. have some excellent lighting when doing this- dont want any shiney spots left.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2020 5:51 pm
what i do on runs is spread glazing putty over/around them- spread it out beyond the run. then sand with a hard block backer.that way only the run is being sanded on and not any surrounding clear. when all the putty is gone i know the run is gone.

what id do to the whole car before more clear is a hard block and 600 grit to denib then scuff like coronet mentioned. have some excellent lighting when doing this- dont want any shiney spots left.[/quote]

Good advice. My car is shiny now and Im scared to death to make it dull haha, but yeah I want to do it right. I don't have any more good basecoat left and only enough clear for 2 maybe 3 coats so I can't mess this up that's why i have been asking the same question a few times... my bad

I picked up a 5 inch Dynablade DA sander and sand paper discs that are 800, 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit. I could go down and get 600 at the hardware store if I had to. Can I use this DA to sand and denib the entire car with it?

I also picked up a new Dewalt (DWP849X) polisher with foam pads and wool bonnet. Along with 3M Super Duty Rubbing compound and 3D HD Speed All In One Cleaner Polish & Sealant. Heading out to the garage now to get the panels put back on the car. This weekend she is hopefully getting repsprayed for the last time with clear.



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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 10:29 pm
Checking in with some more problems on my first paint job. :flatten:

So I sanded the car with 800 for denibbing purposes and then scuffed the car with gray scotch pads to a dull finish. I went locally and bought a gallon of a different brand clear so that i had more than enough as I only had 32oz of the old stuff, I think this new stuff is better.

I sprayed 2 coats and it went on great. On the 3rd coat all the sudden I got massive runs all over the place and didnt notice with the white paint until I had hit a few different panels. I found that either my filter or air valve plugged up right below my gun and I could only get 10psi on the guage even when opening the valve/gauge all the way open. I'm assuming this pressure drop from 29psi to 10psi caused the runs everywhere, I took another setup off my primer gun that had a filter and air valve on it and put it on my paint gun and it immediately went to 29psi or more if I needed it to. Something got plugged up between the gun and the end of the air hose.

So now I have moved on from that point in hopes to put this paint job to bed but doesn't look like its going to be that easy. I took the driver door off which had about 60% of the runs and started scraping the THIRTY or so runs with a razor blade to bring them flat. I removed most but there was a few that I believe I dug too deep and left chunks of clear missing in the door and hopefully not down to the base I then hit it with 800 on the DA to level the runs and also denib. I hit everything with 800 then 1000, 1500, 3000. It looked dull when finished like it should I suppose. Today I used my new buffer/polisher after watching a bunch of youtube videos but every video is different and people use different pads and products.

I must say my door looks like **** now. I used the 3m compound that is in the picture but have not used the 3D polish yet (which on the bottle says "turns dark" which I don't want on my bright white car).I wish I had more experience doing this.

Right now I have brown 3m compound inside all the little holes that I caused with the **** razor blade and you can see it stand out, I can also see scratches now and some more runs that I didnt see before that are just elevated with no drips. The rest of the car has so much clear on it and it looks pretty good from a distance looks like its dripping wet I have only sanded and cut and buffed the door so far but I'm going to stop until I can figure this out better, I still have more runs on the hood and quarters but not as many as this door had.

The weather is getting down into the 40s already and I was hoping to be done spraying anymore base or clear but may still have to depending on what you guys think. I have VERY little base left, maybe enough to spray the door but I have enough clear left.

I think I would have been in the clear (no pun intended) if my air pressure didn't dip down to 10psi, now I have a whole new world of problems that I wasn't ready for, I guess you have to learn somehow but just my luck.

Sorry for the long book I just wrote.

Could really use some help at this point to get this car done.

Soooooooo, what can I do about the car with runs? What can I do about this door? Use putty to fill in the divots, repaint it, reclear it? What are my options?

Also are these products that I have ok to use?

Out of the 3M wool bonnet and ebay foam pads which pads and products should I use or don't use, or need to buy? What order should I go in as far as pads, apparently they all do something different.

Thanks in advance..
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 4:34 am
fixing runs:
spread glazing putty over them- extending out beyond. sand with 600 and a hard block backer. the glazing putty makes it so youre only sanding on what you want removed.
a da wont flatten runs. just makes yer finish wave at ya.

cant help ya on the buffing. although i do more paint correction than painting nowadays, i switched to meguiars m100 using a tristed wool pad on a rotary. suggested by coronet here. the combo kicks ****.
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