badsix wrote:maybe i missed it, but i don't see anywhere were he's said he STAINED THE PAINT! a recipe for disaster if he didn't.
Jay D.

I'm assuming you mean strained the paint. And yes I have a ton of strainers 190 micron. Even used (2) put together the last time i sprayed the panels with base and still got the tiny chunks, wonder if they are smaller than the strainer holes but still I shouldn't have to do this with good paint should I? I'm learning as I go and watching alot of youtube and reading but in this specific situation there is not alot of direct info.

So should I sand all the nibs down and reclear everything at this point and not worry about the base? Or will that show cloudy sand Mark's through the new clear.

Assuming my gun is good and I have new paint in hand what should be my next move? Is anything salvageable?

Thanks

Looking at the pictures it seems that you have trash in the paint. Hair, dust particles, etc.

The screen in your paint funnel should have removed that if somehow debris got into the unmixed paint.

I agree that a thorough cleaning of the spray gun is in order and make sure the tip is nice and snug when reassembling.

I would tape some masking paper on the booth wall, mix some paint and then set your spray pattern on the paper. (Hold gun proper distance from paper and pull trigger full open for 1 second) Look very closely to make certain that you have consistently fine droplets of paint throughout the pattern and full coverage.

If there is no debris in the pattern on the paper, then it's not your paint or gun.

I have never used TP Global paint so can't speak to the quality or lack thereof.

I actually did clean the gun well, took me about 30 minutes, took it all apart, used Q-Tips and paint gun cleaning brushes, plugged the front tip with a rag and pulled the trigger with air on it forcing cleaner to shoot out of the the cup letting me know gun wasn't plugged, took off cup and made sure paint filter inside gun was not plugged and didnt have debri in it. Used Acetone which was recommended online but then I read later that it can eat up your seals so now that's something that crosses my mind also for any leaks I could have now on the brand new paint gun.

'Robo999 wrote:So should I sand all the nibs down and reclear everything at this point and not worry about the base? Or will that show cloudy sand Mark's through the new clear.

Start by denibbing just one area and then buff to see what it looks like. If acceptable then continue until complete. If not then you may have to consider respraying base and clear.

I don't have alot of experience dealing with clear coat as far as what you can and can't do with it once its sprayed. Is buffing and polishing my only option with out respraying base?

What happens if I carefully wet sand down all the nibs (and there are alot) that are poking up through the clear coat using a small block or sand paper wrapped around a stir stick with maybe 400 or 600 grit, dig out the hairs that are in the clear then when everything is flat spray a few new coats of clear over everything. Will the sanding scuff and dig marks show through the clear?. It's a solid bright white color base.

Robo999 wrote:.......Will the sanding scuff and dig marks show through the clear?. It's a solid bright white color base.

600 grit sanding won't show, but gouge marks will. The clear will act like a magnifying
glass to show defects. You may lose some clarity if you sand the base.

The trash is coming from somewhere. Since you've strained the paint and cleaned the
gun, the only thing left is the air supply. Maybe check the line filter, or add one.
It could be rust in the air tank, that's turning white when it mixes with the paint.

With that era car, and being painted a bright white non-poly, a single-stage urethane
would have been an alternate choice......

NightTrain wrote:

Robo999 wrote:.......Will the sanding scuff and dig marks show through the clear?. It's a solid bright white color base.

600 grit sanding won't show, but gouge marks will. The clear will act like a magnifying
glass to show defects. You may lose some clarity if you sand the base.

The trash is coming from somewhere. Since you've strained the paint and cleaned the
gun, the only thing left is the air supply. Maybe check the line filter, or add one.
It could be rust in the air tank, that's turning white when it mixes with the paint.

With that era car, and being painted a bright white non-poly, a single-stage urethane
would have been an alternate choice......

I found that I had a really crappy booth set up in my garage, 2 fans blowing in and 1 fan blowing out Into a 25' 14" flex exhaust duct. The 2 fans blowing in had furnace filters attached in front of them but some how they came undone and there was a pretty good size gap between the fan and the filter allowing direct air from the fan blades into the booth the paint being sucked into that gap and blown right into the back of the filters, I later found both filters caked with paint on the Backside probably a good reason for all the trash. But then there is the fact that I have chunks of dry paint in the can. I think I may have bad paint and trash from the crappy fan set up. Definitely a learning experience

Another thing just because I live in Texas.. pay attention to your set up times on anything you are mixing whether it's primer, paint, clear, etc. Once I mix something up man that clock is ticking so I have to have my ducks in order fairly quickly depending on what i'm doing (most everything outside since i'm a home hacker as well). I'll see a 30 min window on something and think yea not where I live

Robo999 wrote:

NightTrain wrote:

Robo999 wrote:.......Will the sanding scuff and dig marks show through the clear?. It's a solid bright white color base.

600 grit sanding won't show, but gouge marks will. The clear will act like a magnifying
glass to show defects. You may lose some clarity if you sand the base.

The trash is coming from somewhere. Since you've strained the paint and cleaned the
gun, the only thing left is the air supply. Maybe check the line filter, or add one.
It could be rust in the air tank, that's turning white when it mixes with the paint.

With that era car, and being painted a bright white non-poly, a single-stage urethane
would have been an alternate choice......

I found that I had a really crappy booth set up in my garage, 2 fans blowing in and 1 fan blowing out Into a 25' 14" flex exhaust duct. The 2 fans blowing in had furnace filters attached in front of them but some how they came undone and there was a pretty good size gap between the fan and the filter allowing direct air from the fan blades into the booth the paint being sucked into that gap and blown right into the back of the filters, I later found both filters caked with paint on the Backside probably a good reason for all the trash. But then there is the fact that I have chunks of dry paint in the can. I think I may have bad paint and trash from the crappy fan set up. Definitely a learning experience

Being that everything already has clear on it my question was about sanding the existing clear smooth and flat with 600 while being careful not to burn through to the base coat and THEN spraying more clear on top, I was wondering if I would see scuff marks that way.

TCP global is saying that the paint is fine and won't help me out. I told them I don't want free paint or any hand outs just if the paint is bad please replace it. I said just meanwhile while you do your "big investigation" send me 32oz of new paint for now and I'll pay for it just so I can paint my car and be done with it.

They sent the new paint and it looks to be whiter than the first batch what do you guys think? I'm not skilled enough in painting to start blending panels and all that just give me a **** gallon of paint that is all the same color and with out **** inside it and I'll be happy haha. Back to square one again seriously can't catch a break..Maybe I will just bight the bullet and go buy good Dupont paint at the local paint store. Already bought paint twice why not buy it a 3rd time for this tiny car haha.