Hi Guys,

I have a guy that wants me to shoot a motorcycle tank (Ducatti). He sounds like he will be super critical--he's paying so I can't really fault him I guess. He has already asked about the amount of peel will be present. I told him that I can shoot a finish with less than factory peel. Showed him pics of my latest work and he seems happy.

So, my question to the experts, at the end of the day, would I get a better finish with a cut and buff job or, for a small part like his tank, would I get almost as good of a finish if I gave it 4 coats of clear, waited 4 or 5 days and then wet sanded with 800 grit and then give it 2 more coats of clear. Thoughts??

Wet sanding and buffing of parts like a motorcycle tank is really difficult.

So, a flow coat seems like a better option.

How are you going to stop the same things happening to your flow coat as happened to your first coats?

NFT5 wrote:Wet sanding and buffing of parts like a motorcycle tank is really difficult.

So, a flow coat seems like a better option.

How are you going to stop the same things happening to your flow coat as happened to your first coats?

That's a good question....I mean, if I get dirt in the first round of cc, I might get the same amount on the second round. So, why do a flow coat in the first place?

Cut and buff will provide the most clarity.
Here's a Harley fender I painted.
As sprayed:


Same fender after cut and buff:

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Cut and buff will provide the most clarity.
Here's a Harley fender I painted.
As sprayed:

FrontFenderasSprayed.jpg

Same fender after cut and buff:

FrontFenderBuffed.jpg

Where is the fender....I only see a mirror..LOL. Beautiful!!

I always sand and buff, even morotcycle parts. It helps to have a nice small 3" buffer, like the pneumatic Chicago one.

I like to do a flow coat and leave alone on certain projects.

I will sand it out flat and Just do one coat though Not two going for two invites chances of runs.

i,ve buffed many tanks. i had a stand that i made out of wood a piece of plywood for the base 2'x2' then an upright and some pipe insulation. you can force the tank down over the insulation and then buff its still a good idea to have someone hold onto it i would sometimes get my wife to do it, BUT ITS A NASTY JOB. i did pay her well! on fenders i try and get my initial clear coat on as smooth as possible wet wet. then if i want to buff ONLY sand the areas that you can get with the buffing wheel. DON'T sand down in bends where the wheel won't go just leave that and buff the other areas it will look great.
Jay D.

chopolds wrote:I always sand and buff, even morotcycle parts. It helps to have a nice small 3" buffer, like the pneumatic Chicago one.

Not a bad idea, I could do that to try it.

badsix wrote:i,ve buffed many tanks. i had a stand that i made out of wood a piece of plywood for the base 2'x2' then an upright and some pipe insulation. you can force the tank down over the insulation and then buff its still a good idea to have someone hold onto it i would sometimes get my wife to do it, BUT ITS A NASTY JOB. i did pay her well! on fenders i try and get my initial clear coat on as smooth as possible wet wet. then if i want to buff ONLY sand the areas that you can get with the buffing wheel. DON'T sand down in bends where the wheel won't go just leave that and buff the other areas it will look great.
Jay D.

Great advice. I like your idea of the stand you built.