Fuel tank as sprayed:


Fuel tank buffed:

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Fuel tank as sprayed:

Fuel Tank Right.JPG

Fuel tank buffed:

********** Black.JPG

********** Black Euro Clear.JPG

WOW, that is beautiful. Could you tell me the steps to achieve that (grit, polishing pads, compounds, etc.)? Thanks!!

Rebel Racing wrote:Could you tell me the steps to achieve that (grit, polishing pads, compounds, etc.)?

It's not the grit or the compound that produces a result like that. Rather it's taking care with each step to thoroughly remove the damage from the prior step and ready the surface for the next stage.

After many years of using a particular brand of compound I've recently switched brands and changed from foam pads to wool, at least in the early stages. Other than less dust, the difference in the surface is negligible and time taken about the same, although the wool does leave a bit more swirl.

I agree with Chris, people use different means to achieve the same results.

Personally, I like to wet sand with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. The trick is to be sure you remove all the orange peel with 1000. You want the entire surface flat and dull looking.
Then you need to remove all the 1000 grit scratches with the 1500 grit. Some guys will sand at an angle with the 1500 until there are no scratches going in a different direction. Repeat the process with 2000 grit. Keep your surface clean at all times, I keep a spray bottle with water and a couple of drops of Dawn dish soap in it for this purpose. Spray it on and wipe it off with microfiber towel.

I have switched to Meguiar's M-100 and really like it. Use a rotary buffer and a wool pad and start with low rps (~600) while spreading the compound then bump up the rpms (~2000) for buffing. Always keep the buffer moving slowly across the surface and make sure the buffer is rotating "off" edges and body lines not into them.

Next I use Chemical Guys V36 and a white foam pad.
Last I use Menzerna FF3800 and a black foam pad.

'55 Chevy Truck Cab:

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I agree with Chris, people use different means to achieve the same results.

Personally, I like to wet sand with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. The trick is to be sure you remove all the orange peel with 1000. You want the entire surface flat and dull looking.
Then you need to remove all the 1000 grit scratches with the 1500 grit. Some guys will sand at an angle with the 1500 until there are no scratches going in a different direction. Repeat the process with 2000 grit. Keep your surface clean at all times, I keep a spray bottle with water and a couple of drops of Dawn dish soap in it for this purpose. Spray it on and wipe it off with microfiber towel.

I have switched to Meguiar's M-100 and really like it. Use a rotary buffer and a wool pad and start with low rps (~600) while spreading the compound then bump up the rpms (~2000) for buffing. Always keep the buffer moving slowly across the surface and make sure the buffer is rotating "off" edges and body lines not into them.

Next I use Chemical Guys V36 and a white foam pad.
Last I use Menzerna FF3800 and a black foam pad.

'55 Chevy Truck Cab:

Back of Cab.jpg

Great, that is exactly what I was looking for. I agree also that there are multiple ways to achieve similar results. It probably just takes some experimenting. I already have some of the supplies you used and may do some practicing with a few spray out panels I have here. Thanks for the advice!!

NFT5 wrote: the wool does leave a bit more swirl.

Swirls are caused by the pad loading up with material in little balls sticking to the pad.

Keep a Bucket of soapy water near buy to wash your pads out on regularly.
I wash my pads out constantly while buffing. Wool or Foam.
Just spurring the Pad isn't enough!
Washing them out I find is more effective removing the contaminates, after washing put em back on buffer and spin dry on the buffer. Inspect pad for contaminants sticking to pad b4 using only takes a second then go back at it.

Its easier to keep washing Pads out than to remove Swirls!

I Hate Swirls

excilent info FROM EVERYONE above. all i can add is use GOOD paper in the 1000 to ,2000 range not the cheapest you can find. that's some beautiful work Chris! NOTE the tank stand. did i ever tell you i hate buffing!
Jay D.

badsix wrote::goodpost: excilent info FROM EVERYONE above. all i can add is use GOOD paper in the 1000 to ,2000 range not the cheapest you can find. that's some beautiful work Chris! NOTE the tank stand. did i ever tell you i hate buffing!
Jay D.

I hate Buffing too!
I like 3M sheets for wet sanding myself. Good stuff
I only do One sanding step myself with 1200 and go strait to wool followed by Foam.
Advice I picked up on from Old Dupontguy! I also like his idea of only Spot de-nibing and polishing rather than a whole cut and buff especially for driver stuff. Who really wants or needs a 40+ hr full cut and buff on a daily driver?

I may spend more time Sanding but removing the scratch from 1200 is easy with Wool, Refining is easy with a couple different Foam pads and the right compounds.

Its easy to Burn clear or buff through it with Wool and even easier to mess up Body lines or raised areas so go easy on them or tape them off!

All great info for a guy like me. Curious, when you know that you will be doing a cut/buff job, typically, how many coats of clear will you lay down?

I do 4