Drilling through frame through filler?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2021 7:58 pm
Hello,
Over quarantine I bought and am restoring a 1990 mustang. Haven’t done any kind of auto body work in about 18years. Shaved and smoothed the engine bay. Strut towers, fender aprons and frame rails. Then I realize 2 of the holes i welded up and filled over are for the clutch cable and locating tab. It’s already been painted in eastwood epoxy and chassis satin black. My question is, does anyone know if I go to drill into the frame rail THROUGH the filler, will it crack or crumble and damage the work? Filler used was Upol if that matters.

Thanks for any knowledge you can share.

Brandon



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2021 8:34 pm
nearly impossible to say. but try this, drill a small hole first then jump up a couple sizes try and make your next to last drilling just under what the final size is. these are not high stress holes, when bolting up to the filler use a flat washer.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 11:31 am
I would suggest loosing the Mustang Cable system altogether It really sucks any way, my kid has ha nothing but problems with his 3 cables and a New plastic drive assembly above the steering wheel only to go to Hydraulic in the end.
Go with a Hydraulic clutch.

If your gonna run any serious power in it requiring a stronger Pressure plate you'll be glad you did.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl- ... /year/1990
https://www.mcleodracing.com/conversion-kits-ford/p89

I have seen these kits cheaper than this you may have to shop around but Hydraulic system really is the way to go.

if you do decide to drill the stuff ya it could break and chip do what you gotta do then feather it all back out fill as needed sand again and repaint no big deal. The only real trick is drilling the correct size holes for the cable and locating tab.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 12:05 pm
Yeah, I've had the same thing happen with kit cars and filled out holes that should have been left open. Guys have already given you some pretty good tips on the drilling. I also will take some decent auto grade masking tape and put this down where I am going to drill. I literally drill through the tape. This seems to help in keeping the area together. Not saying it can stop it from cracking but it should help minimize it. Very carefully and slowly peel the tape back off.
And here is vote #2 for hydraulic clutches. They are so flexible in the mounting process and can handle gobs of horsepower easily.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 3:08 pm
i'm slowly building a 31 chevy pickup nothing fancy just a driver. i'm putting a 270 inline GMC 6 in it and a 5 spd. looking at clutch linkage was mind boggling, so i bought a hyd. release bearing. the 5spd. was already set up for it and it was an easy install. SO EASY a caveman could do it. :rotfl: :rotfl:
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 10:09 pm
badsix wrote:i'm building a 31 chevy pickup nothing fancy just a driver. i'm putting a 270 inline GMC 6 in it.
Jay D.


Check out this 36 Chev box with a 6 in it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vk-AJEkkR9I
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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