I have a dent to practice on and a Harbor Freight stud welder. On this type of dent how do I choose where to attach the studs for the first pulls? I'm sure there is a proper order to follow like outside to inside, but I'm clueless. Any other suggestions or tips? This is just practice. Ultimately I will probably weld on a new end cap.

that's a little massive for a stud welder. best to weld some washers on then try and pull with a good slide hammer. just playing around come in from the vertical seam buy the word scout a couple inches. put a row of nails up and down in that area. then put 5-6 in the crease at the top. start pulling on the vertical row and the nails in the crease. your next move would maybe be a row of nails in the large vertical crease. just load it up and see what happens. they make all kinds of attachments to pull with but with what you have your really limited.
Jay D.

I agree.

First remove the tail light assembly to gain access to the back of the dent. You may need to insert a block of wood to use as a prying point and then take a crow bar or something with a large hook shape to it, that you can use to apply pressure to the back side.

Read the Sticky Post in the Welding and Metal Fab Forum and it explains the techniques used in removing dents with pressure and a body hammer.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18781

Jay D.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I agree.

First remove the tail light assembly to gain access to the back of the dent. You may need to insert a block of wood to use as a prying point and then take a crow bar or something with a large hook shape to it, that you can use to apply pressure to the back side.

Read the Sticky Post in the Welding and Metal Fab Forum and it explains the techniques used in removing dents with pressure and a body hammer.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18781

I would proceed in the manner described above! Remove light assembly first.
I would use a Heel dolly on out side edges of dent on the inside pushing hard while Tapping on Creases with a Low crown hammer from the outside, GO Slow take your time work out side to inside.
Just Tap metal! Do not POUND on it!!!!!! I can not stress that enough!
Work outside all around whole dent keep working it as you work in, I think you'll find you don't even need a stud welder on that dent.
But you may need a Shrinking disk!

The Metal wants to spring back to its original shape it just needs a little help to get their.

Thanks for all the input!! Apologies for the late reply life got crazy this past week.

I think I'll try the heel dolly and hammer first and see how much progress I can make.

If that doesn't work I'll move on to the weld on washer and studs. Would it be better to hook up a constant pull instead of using a slide hammer? I think my slide hammer is only 2 lbs maybe 3. I have a chain and big turn buckle however that I could hook to the tow hook on my pick up.

Progress pics forthcoming!

steady pull works
Jay D.

aurorarifle wrote:Thanks for all the input!! Apologies for the late reply life got crazy this past week.

I think I'll try the heel dolly and hammer first and see how much progress I can make.

If that doesn't work I'll move on to the weld on washer and studs. Would it be better to hook up a constant pull instead of using a slide hammer? I think my slide hammer is only 2 lbs maybe 3. I have a chain and big turn buckle however that I could hook to the tow hook on my pick up.

Progress pics forthcoming!

Keep in mind Hammer ON Dolley will stretch the metal.
Keep your Tapping Off Dolley to Bump the metal.
Pushing the metal with the Dolley on the inside will be what moves the dented metal out as You Tap Off Dolley from out side.
As I said above work the Out side of the dent all the way around repeatedly slowly the metal will move slowly then suddenly Jump out as the Dent is unlocked. its a cool process to watch when done correctly.

I can do it easier and faster than I can explain it lol

Thanks Dennis. Didn't know hammer on dolly would stretch it. Is that multi stud holder home made?