Acrylic enamel vs lacquer job what is better

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JCCLARK JCCLARK's Profile E-mail JCCLARK JCCLARK's Website Top Contributor Posts: 3966 Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:59 am Location: Louisville, KY Country: USA	Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 8:44 am Last edited by JCCLARK on Thu Jan 21, 2021 9:02 am, edited 1 time in total. JC. (It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 9:02 am

NFT5 wrote:No. It's bubbling because it's no good. If you paint over it the bubbles will just come up where you've painted.

Take it all off, down to the metal and make sure you get all the edges. Then start again. An etch followed by primer, base and clear. Or epoxy, base and clear. Or epoxy and 2-4 coats gloss black acrylic.

TheMidnightNarwhal wrote:Regarding basecoats not being urethane, are urethane paints AKA waterborne paints or not the same? If yes, then my NAPA basecoat paint can is definitely urethane.

There is no such thing as urethane basecoat. Some basecoats are sometimes called urethane compatible but that means nothing - so is almost anything. Waterborne is used for base, although there are some waterborne primers out there now. Urethane is for topcoats, clear or solid colour (yeah, or candied, but that's another discussion).

Yep for sure, I believe you may have missed the part in my reply, I will sand to metal the bubbling areas and prep with self etch then go on with base. But I wasn't planning to follow up with a primer since the self etch is mention to also be a primer in one.

And ack on that, makes sense. In this case my basecoat should be more compatible with other substrate that I was worried, we should be good to go. I think the job will turn out well.

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TheMidnightNarwhal TheMidnightNarwhal's Profile E-mail TheMidnightNarwhal Settled In Posts: 53 Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2019 11:56 pm Country: Canada	Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 9:03 am JCCLARK wrote:I think this is a troll Are you talking about me? If so, why? How or where do you read trolling in this entire thread.
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JCCLARK JCCLARK's Profile E-mail JCCLARK JCCLARK's Website Top Contributor Posts: 3966 Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:59 am Location: Louisville, KY Country: USA	Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 2:54 pm Last edited by JCCLARK on Thu Jan 21, 2021 9:02 am, edited 1 time in total. JC. (It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 4:28 pm

JCCLARK wrote:You keep asking the same questions that's been answered several times.
We have 3 pages now for what was covered in the first half of the first page.
This is ridiculous.

If you find it ridiculous you can leave the thread and discussion. Unfortunately this is how I learn, if this was a class in person I'd be raising my hand and asking up follow-up questions, this is basically what I am doing here. :mrgreen:

Plus, what's so bad about having a discussion on the web and having 3 pages of it? It's fun to read all this info and I find it fascinating. :mrgreen:

Since this thread has started, I have actually completely shifted from my title, I am not even debating between those 2 anymore. I've learned so much **** since we've started talking here, doing so much googling on other stuff to and again, I thank you all for providing your inputs, this stuff might seem really straight forward to some here but for people like me it's things that we simply don't know because we are not out there working in the field and being taught by experts who have been doing this for like 20 years+. As DIYer like me my only option is places like here to ask and ask haha! :mrgreen:

I'm pretty sure I'll get the basecoat and clear at NAPA with their system they have. The paint basecoat is Cromax Pro waterborne basecoat and then clear with the SprayMax 2K. Again, the target for this job is 3 years but to be honest I think I am much more confident using this method it will last longer and I could even use a 2K epoxy primer instead of 1K self etch and I think the job will definitely be semi-permanent at that point. Although I am reading self etch is still decent product and a 2k self etching primer does not exist right? Is this the only acceptable solution where a 1k spray can is ok? From what I've learned, this should be a pretty close job in terms of quality to having a paint gun system at home. If I am wrong please someone correct me, this is how I learn!

And with this info I was able to find the TDS so now actually based on that I will use the 800 grit by hand to prep the glossy places for basecoat or clear, instead of 600, altho I'm sure marginal difference.

I'm pretty much 99% ready for my project now.