Epoxy primer tack coat?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2021 3:41 pm
Hi all,

My understanding is it's best to use a tack coat on vertical surfaces.
Is this also true with 2K epoxy primer on bare steel?



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2021 8:55 pm
i don't, med wet coat.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 8:30 am
You want your epoxy, or any primer, to be wet enough to fill scratches
so it adheres. Better to have to sand a run out later than to have adhesion loss.
And epoxy doesn't run to easily so no reason to do a tack coat.
JC

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 10:45 am
Thank you Jay and JC for taking the time to respond.
I appreciate it.


Around 10 years ago I painted one of my antique refrigerators using spray cans after sand blasting (using play sand) and managed to do an ok job. I know my first top coat was way too light, but it appears that probably helped me so I wanted to look into what I need to do this time around with everything.

I'm planning on 2K epoxy primer and a single stage urethane from TCP global. Hopefully, I can do as good with a real sprayer as I did with the rattle cans 10 years ago. It's far from perfect, but it looks good in normal use.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/3pwwQJhy5JEFTUXi7

The hardest part for me were the fins but I got them good enough.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/on47bAgQHyNTtKvQ8

The textured finish was from the sandblasting unfortunately. I'm hoping to learn from my previous mistakes and do better this time. I hope.....



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 12:02 pm
awesome project! you need to put some type of primer on then sand it smooth to fill the sandblast profile. really for that you probably could omit the epoxy and use a DTM hi build primer ( DTM direct to metal ). yep the fins are going to be tricky. spray slightly down on the first coat not worrying about the upper part of the fin groove but coating the lower part THEN STEP AWAY and let that coat tack up good. now shoot a second coat on the fins and slightly aiming up so you get coverage on the upper part of the fin groove. if you try and do it all at one time the lower and upper part of the groove your most likely going to get runs. please keep the post coming with pictures
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 12:08 pm
badsix wrote:awesome project! you need to put some type of primer on then sand it smooth to fill the sandblast profile. really for that you probably could omit the epoxy and use a DTM hi build primer ( DTM direct to metal ). yep the fins are going to be tricky. spray slightly down on the first coat not worrying about the upper part of the fin groove but coating the lower part THEN STEP AWAY and let that coat tack up good. now shoot a second coat on the fins and slightly aiming up so you get coverage on the upper part of the fin groove. if you try and do it all at one time the lower and upper part of the groove your most likely going to get runs. please keep the post coming with pictures
Jay D.



Hi Jay,

I had looked at DTM surfacer primer, but I wasn't sure if I could use that instead of a sealer primer? This time I was going to soda blast, until I saw a lot of negative comments about it regarding paint issues. I suspect those fins etc will be a nightmare with trying to get all of the soda out of it.

I know this isn't really the same as a car as it's not outside, but I do want something that normal use won't scratch etc. Obviously if someone tries they will scratch anything, but we're fairly careful around them.


This is what the unit above looks like today. The one I'm restoring is a completely different top but same idea.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aEhodkW4gWQBiw8t5



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 7:28 pm
I'm not sure what the dtm surfacer is, but dtm hi build is what you want and most can be used as a sealer also if you want.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 7:30 pm
badsix wrote:I'm not sure what the dtm surfacer is, but dtm hi build is what you want and most can be used as a sealer also if you want.
Jay D.


Thank you for responding.

What are the thoughts on Spraymax products?
Part of me is tempted to go with their 2k primer because of how little I'll be using for this job. As long as it'll perform as good as the real thing.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:46 am
ChrisJ wrote:[b]
Around 10 years ago I painted one of my antique refrigerators using spray cans after sand blasting (using play sand) and managed to do an ok job. .


Please tell me you took extra precautions using play sand to blast with,
there's nothing more dangerous than blasting with regular sand.
It's really really deadly. Look up Silicosis.
JC

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:36 am
JCCLARK wrote:
ChrisJ wrote:[b]
Around 10 years ago I painted one of my antique refrigerators using spray cans after sand blasting (using play sand) and managed to do an ok job. .


Please tell me you took extra precautions using play sand to blast with,
there's nothing more dangerous than blasting with regular sand.
It's really really deadly. Look up Silicosis.



I guess I could tell you that but it's not going to help me any. I didn't know at the time but learned not to long after.

I'll be using plenty of protection this time around even without sand. I'll be using a full face respirator for the urethane paint. I know that's considered "minimum" with these paints but I'll also have good ventilation and change the filters often.

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