Okay I understand that there are 2k rattle cans where you have to activate the hardener via a button or push action on the can to mix it, however I bought a rattle can with 2k written on it but there wasn't a button or anything, this left me somewhat confused and is it just as good??

It could be a type of "precatalyzed" product. These are products that have an acid activator in the solution. It does not become active and start the catalyzing process until it hits the air as it leaves the can. A precat coating is generally not as heavy duty of a product as those others featuring the button for release of the hardener in the can.

Oh okay & thanks for the answer. I do remember someone saying it's an air dry type but I was unsure if they knew what they were talking about so with what you say it does make sense.
Also while I am here can you tell me which is the best paint type for spraying cars/motorcycles if I were to use it with a spray gun and compressor?
I understand there is Acrylic, Cellulose and so on but there are so many?

Well, I can tell you enough that I am not sure because you are in the UK. Your terminologies are kind of different than us over here in the US. I can tell you that any automotive urethane single stage or base/clear products are going to perform better and offer increased durability over anything which would be lacquers, enamels, etc. Maybe some of the other guys on here that are more familiar with your paint systems can chime in here.....

Once again thank you for your input. Yes I am in the UK and I found it interesting that you say a urethane single stage paint is better than lacquers, enamels, etc...
So urethane single stage paint doesn't need a hardener then?

dilliger76 wrote:Once again thank you for your input. Yes I am in the UK and I found it interesting that you say a urethane single stage paint is better than lacquers, enamels, etc...
So urethane single stage paint doesn't need a hardener then?

Single stage refers to paint application, no clear required. A single stage black urethane would have an activator component, mix and apply color in one step and your panel is black. Base Clear has a color base coat thats applied first, then an activated urethane clear applied over that, then your panel is black, works as a system.

I've seen cheap enamel spray cans at ACE labeled 2k, marketing mis-information to make you buy it. Leave the spray cans at ACE, get real paint from the autobody supply house. It's your precious time...

nicely put!
Jay D.

Thank you for your message and the explanation, it's extra knowledge I didn't have. The single stage seems the way to go then without the need of applying a clear coat lacquer if I'm reading that right that is...

Dillinger I cut my teeth on single stage in the 70's, paint and body before there was base clear, and I do like both. Base/clear can be easier in some ways but thats a rabbit hole, search around some and get ideas. But I like single stage just fine especially for solids like black etc...

Btw... nitrocellulose and acrylic lacquer were early coatings and considered primitive by todays standards. The term to "lacquer" a piece comes from those days when nitro lacquer was actually used to coat furniture in a long hand applied process, rarely used anymore and most of todays automotive coatings are urethane derivatives, The clear you use in base clear systems are urethanes.