I inherited a 1993 C1500 pace truck recently and it is in rough shape. I am mechanically proficient (aircraft mechanic in the Air Force for six years among other things) but do not know much about paint and body work. I always find it irritating when people ask questions that could easily be answered in a few minutes with minimal effort, hopefully this post does not come across that way. I have done a little bit of research but do not have the time to be as overly thorough as usual since I am a full-time student in my last semester, partway through a house remodel, working on my personal projects to sell and make room, and I also acquired two motorcycles I’m trying to learn about.

I don’t really care about looks right now, I just need to get the tarp off the roof and try to keep the problems from getting worse for a while with minimal effort. Eventually the truck will get stripped and repainted but probably a few years from now. I’m not against buying some new tools but nothing crazy. I have basic stuff, drills, grinder, an old Makita sander/polish I’ve never used.

Anyways, I have a few questions and would greatly appreciate any help

1. Rust in the rear window channel. I called a company to come replace the rear slider with a solid window. The guy worked on it for about an hour and told me I had to bring it, he couldn’t get it out and needed to use air tools. I got the old window out and ordered a new one. My plan is to sand this down to bare metal (if possible), coat with epoxy primer, coat with some topcoat, and call a different company to install the window. I bought some spray can epoxy primer but have read that it’s pretty harsh stuff and I do not have the proper respirator, I’m also worried about overspray out in the driveway. Can I carefully apply the primer and topcoat with a brush and do a good enough job for the window to be installed? What is the best way to get at this rust? I knocked off surface stuff with a wire wheel past that I’m not entirely sure.




2. This might be a question for the window guy, but I doubt anyone is going to come out and look beforehand. There is a cut in the sheet metal I assume done by the guy trying to remove the window (he told me he broke three blades in his removal tool). I’ve flattened it out most of the way, part of me thinks it should be fine as is semi-temporarily since it will be in the window seal, but I’d like to do it (mostly) right. I do have a mig welder, my plan is to run a series of tacks along this cut to seal it up and then smooth it out. Any comments/suggestions?



3. The paint on the roof is gone. My plan is to sand this down to bare metal using my Bosch random orbital sander at least for the first chunk of bulk removal (I think I read 80 grit?). I do not have a dual action sander or a compressor to run one (6.1 scfm @ 90 psi 28 gallon oil-free). I was going to use the same spray can epoxy primer but have the same concerns. Can I roll on some epoxy primer and a topcoat? It looks like I can get a single stage urethane paint matched to the original color (so it won’t match anything on the almost 30 year old truck) and not need a clear coat. I’m aware it will look pretty bad but again I just need to stop the rust from getting worse.



4. The paint that remains is in pretty bad shape. Would it be worth the effort to wax the truck? This isn’t a lot of work and I could just do it but if its not going to help slow further degradation It’s just not worth my time currently.

The Cut metal has to be welded, MIG welding would NOT be my FIRST choice but to each his own it WILL work TAKE YOUR TIME PRACTICE on scrap before the Truck!

The Rust, If you dont have a DA Get one! Harbor fright has them cheap and they will last through one or two small projects before it craps out.
A cheap electric Grinder or variable speed buffer with a Stripping disk is also a good option for a roof and hood like that, Followed by a DA and 80 Grit to prep for paint.

The rust in the Window channel needs more Wire wheeling or better yet Blast the pitting areas with crushed Glass or glass bead, Treat with Muriatic Acid, wash with soap and water b4 EPOXY paint! OR use Vinegar & water b4 Epoxy. I only use only Muriatic Acid products in a specialized Cold Galvanizing metal treatment process myself.

Rolling on a True 2 Part Epoxy and sanding after drying is an ok option, You can also roll your 2 part primer as well then Block sand with guide coat b4 Base coat or single stage.
Not ideal or best way but it can work good if you take your time sanding.

Hope you get your A&P some day.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right! Ya its money Ya it takes time BUT so does doing it twice! Do it once do it right! Their is always more than one way to do it right!

if your into saving money, you can put the new window in your self its easy. all you need is a new rubber ( not very expensive for that model ) some clothes line cord, a plastic ( nylon) pry stick, some dish soap and a extra set of hands, wife can even do this. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/produc ... &utm_mediu
Jay D.