okay so ive got a sheet of 22guage metal here from lowes..

so i sanded it down with my da and 80 grit used hightech wax and greese remover..
i used nason 491-40 etch primer in a rattle can since i have a small surface..
i let that dry scuffed it up with a red scotch brite ..
whiped the dust off of the panel
then shot with a 2k urathane primer Sherwin Williams Finish 1 FP410 with a 4:1 ratio
with its finish 1 2k hardener FH411.. let that dry for 4 hours has a 3 hour dry window..

so then i applied my base coat its a house brand i get local
automotive specialtys ebony black mixed it with its reducer 1:1..
i applied 3 coats with a 10 min flash time inbatween.. as it states on the can
i let that dry for 24 hours maybe even a little longer..

so then i did my beginner stencil work using the galaxy silver in the
automotive specialtys paint reduced heavy for air brush..
i let my work dry for couple of hours...

so then i mixed my .004 didspade chrome flake they recommend using
tamcopaint hc 895 intercoat clear.. i then mixed it with the tamco hr 1380 reducer 1:1.
sprayed the panel with my flake i let that dry 30 mins..

now i mixing my Tamco paint the tamco custom pearl candy in tamgerine
mixing it 1:1 with the tamco 1380 as it suggests i sprayed that in 2 coats giving a 10 min
flash time inbatween them.. and i start seeing something odd after the last coat in the pic below..

Interesting sounds like your doing every thing right to me? except maybe the fact that all the products are kinda miss matched (Not from same system)
I think maybe you should try Inter coat after base coat?

Since I see "black" mostly heaved up there I would suspect that black house brand stuff doesn't want to play nice with everything else you are working with. When it comes to something as critical as special effects and art work I try to stay within a brand/line. A sheet of 22 is also just "flexy" enough as you sand it to maybe somewhat micro crack through allowing the incompatibilities to be exaggerated.

think ill try intercoat after base.. never had this issue before could be just the base coat paint not wanting to co op with the other stuff...

but didspade and tamco products are supposed to be useable together they both recomend the products and ive talked to them about my base coat before they said shouldnt be an issue..

the paint im using is kind of cheap 27$ a quart

DarrelK wrote:Since I see "black" mostly heaved up there I would suspect that black house brand stuff doesn't want to play nice with everything else you are working with. When it comes to something as critical as special effects and art work I try to stay within a brand/line. A sheet of 22 is also just "flexy" enough as you sand it to maybe somewhat micro crack through allowing the incompatibilities to be exaggerated.

good point on the flexy of the 22ga now i had it on some boards while sanding on my table.. but you sure bring a valid point ..

sherwin williams has a nice black base coat i may try with a hardener so i may wind up trying that..

Yeah, I brought that up specifically because we have to work with a lot of wood and metal panel combos in our restoration business. I remember in particular we had some thinner metal panels that were not sell supported and we got a similar reaction. With a magnifying glass we could see where we had flexed the panels just enough for topcoats to react with lower base coatings.....

And now I just sprayed another piece that's been dry several days ..i did one side candy coat no flake or intercoat. The other side flake intercoat and candy. And no issues so could have been a flex problem

That's not a flex problem. Your top coat was too wet, possibly over a base that hadn't fully cured. Result = fry up.

I agree with Chris, looks more like incompatibility, than flexing. I do lots of custom stuff, and see this once in a while, sometimes I can diagnose it, sometimes not.
A few things to consider: Black basecoat not compatible with the rest of the paints. Not enough cure time on the catalyzed primer (maybe too cold air temps?) Tamco's reducer a bit too aggressive, or not correct temp for your spraying conditions? A slow dry reducer can soak deep down into layers of paint, and react with them. As mentioned, maybe just too much variability in your products. Something just doesn't 'like' another. Lastly, even though you're following the manufacturers recommended dry times, when you start doing things outside the norm (artwork, with many layers of paint) you might need to extend those dry times to accommodate.

maybe a coat was to wet then not sure...

as mentioned earlier i had another practice panel with some artwork on it.
it had been sitting for a coupe of days didnt have a clear on it or intercoat..
i made a border line hald without intercoat/flake and applied candy coat..
the other half with flake and intercoat... and no issues and its also on a piece of 22guage..

so yeah maybe something wasnt cured interesting stuff to learn here

we all learn so yeah lol im still starting out
i do like this hobby its expensive but oh well lol heck all hobbies are

but i think i might be stepping away from the house brand paint of silver and black..
they have sherwin williams finish 1 with a hardner thought about maybe switiching to it i dunno