Single stage color sanding?

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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 11:19 am
So I need to paint just the trunk on my sons 1992 Mercedes 300E, color is artic white, for some reason just the clear coat is peeling badly on the trunk only, possibly bad prep on previous owner paint job?
So my plan is sanding trunk down, buy a 2K primer, will spray it LVHP, I do have some leftover single stage urethane in that color, 1/2 gallon, I used it on my KIA minivan bumpers last summer and came out pretty good ,but has some orange peel , don't really see it unless you get real close, but for the trunk it will be noticeable, probably spray 3 coats, I would like to color sand it then buff it out , its that doable? have all grits of wet dry sand paper.
Thanks JL
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 11:55 am
Newbie question,

With a single stage urethane why do you feel the need to color sand? Isn't is for a finish without the need to do this? My understanding is no clear coat is required (but is optional)
with single stage paints, that is what I'm going to be using soon on my project car, so I may learn from your experience.

TX
Mr fixit_PDX
Chris :)



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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 6:48 pm
Well I don’t want orange peel like when I sprayed the KIA with same paint, I did that one outside, not super noticeable, but I know it’s there. I’m pretty sure if it happens again to the trunk I can color sand it flat then buff.



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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 8:21 pm
you should maybe work on reducing the O/P. use a slower reducer or slower activator try and up the air pressure 10# . it should be no problem buffing the the S/S i like to get on it quick, like in 48 hours. I've done it sooner like the next day but its kinda risky, it does buff easier though.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 6:55 am
You can sand and buff single stage. Metallics and pearls will be a problem, but solid colors are not. And I like to wait weeks before buffing, so the paint sets up, and doesn't lose it's shine, or shrink any more, when it's buffed. It does take more effort sanding, but it works.



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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 9:00 am
I do have a slow reducer, I'm thinking 3-4 coats should be OK? may dry sand instead of wet, wet may take to much paint off, also use block sander for flat areas then sponge for round area, 2 stage would be easier but since they want over $200 for a qt of base, clear, and already have the single stage.



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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 10:48 am
your going to be useing some finer grits 1000 - 1500 to sand the color before buffing. to do it dry with fine grits your paper is going to most likely clog up ( my experience) wet is so much easier. i would put 3 wet coats on that should be enough to do a mild cut. IF your color at 3 coats has heavy O/P then i would do the 4 posibly. 3 good wet coats is a lot, but if you have to sand heavy O/P you don't want to sand or buff through the color. that can and will ruin your day.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 10:00 pm
It would lol! hopefully I can do this in June when weather gets warmer, here's what I have from TCP Global, directions say reducer is not needed, did not use any when I did the KIA bumpers, maybe that's why the OP.
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2021 4:01 pm
Now I'm thinking , should I take the trunk off to paint it on stands or just leave it on? if I remove it, don't have to cover the car at all, to remove its just 4 nuts and electrical wire fished in one of the hinges I would mark the locations of nuts. what would you do?,



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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2021 11:24 pm
i would probably do it on the car. use tape in the jamb, use paper out about 2 ' then use plastic on the remainder.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay
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