I noticed that Tamco has an Epoxy DTA primer https://tamcopaint.com/collections/primers/products/dta-epoxy that isn't as thick and doesn't build as much as the HP-5311. Do you think it's best for me to have the higher build or the epoxy that can be applied with the 1.3 tip?

Also, what's your suggested process for paint removal, chemical, stripper, etc? I've seen a video on the Eastwood Contour surfacing tool and it seemed pretty easy but I'm not sure how each methodology impacts the final metal base.

No, I'd stick with the higher build stuff. You are going to need to get over your defects and block out a nice level surface for your base/clear. As for removing that existing paint depends on what you are both comfortable with and have any experience with..... chemical stripping is a big no, no on plastics. I'd be thinking DA but I'm betting you don't have access to air equipment.

DarrelK wrote:No, I'd stick with the higher build stuff. You are going to need to get over your defects and block out a nice level surface for your base/clear. As for removing that existing paint depends on what you are both comfortable with and have any experience with..... chemical stripping is a big no, no on plastics. I'd be thinking DA but I'm betting you don't have access to air equipment.

I have a small tank rated at like 3.4 CFM, but I did get an electric 5" orbital to do the sanding I thought I would need to do. As far as handle or be comfortable with, I'm very mechanically inclined and have worked with all types of shop equipment as well as mechanical. If needed I can rent equipment to do it. I just don't know what equipment there is for such a job except chemical and that Eastwood surface tool. Does it take a long time with a DA? I can pick up a right angle electric 6" DA at a hardware store. I just want to know if there is an optimal spec range as I know some rotate and oscillate faster and slower than others.

I really need to take the fastest approach as I will be allocating a week or two just solely this project as we move in the middle of the summer and our new place does not have the garage space to take this project on. I can pull engines / trans and rebuild so I feel pretty comfortable with whatever is needed as far as equipment.

Also, am I able to just take the outside paint off and not worry about paint on the inside of things right?

So I met a guy at a car show a few weeks back and he was talking about what he picked up at Jegs for his most recent project.... https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/95710/10002/-1
He had been using disc sanders and air DA for quite sometime for paint removal. He thought it was faster and much more maneuverable. Looks like Eastwood is just private labeling these things as I looked it up and found similar spec.s on several different brands. What the heck, Jegs has a great return policy, give it a try.....
Yep, no need for removal inside, jams, etc.

I was hoping I could find something similar since I assumed they jacked up the price so greatly appreciated! I didn't realize I could also go the right angle grinder route (which I have) with 3M Scotch-brite cleaning disc 4.5". Difference between this surface conditioning tool and the grinder route seems to be linearity. Does that really prevent additional steps?

There is a 40 grit drum as it comes with an 80 grit. Would that be too aggressive for my car?

Also talked to Tamco tech support and they said I can shoot the DTM through a 1.3 tip when it's reduced 4:1:1 or more. I know it's more layers, but Phil also suggested that route. Can you tell me is it best to fix the few dings and dent I have before I strip the paint or after?

Removal is removal, it just looks like the contour tool would be pretty handy in a lot of places. I'd at least see how the 80 grit drum is doing time wise. You don't really need 40 grit scratches left in the metal. As powerful as that thing looks, if it would jump you'll do a lot less errant damage with an 80 grit drum.
Don't fix ANYTHING until you get all of that paint off.