Prepping 2005 Sprinter for roof seams and Raptor Liner

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 8:58 pm
I've searched and read a fair amount, but would like to outline my approach and get y'all's input. I'm new here, so I really appreciate your expertise.

Short term, I'm redoing the roof seams on a 2005 Dodge Sprinter van. In the next month or two, I want to paint the entire thing with Raptor Liner. Here's my plan, please critique/let me know what you guys think.

1. Remove a 6" wide strip of old paint along each seam. (done)
2. Remove as much of the old seam sealer as possible. (done)
3. Sand old paint on either side of bare metal strip with a red 3M pad.
4. Wipe down/blow off all the dust.
5. Apply Gem Rust Killer and Metal Prep to neutralize the rust in the seams where I can't remove it mechanically.
6. Clean with acetone.
7. Apply a 1K polyurethane seam sealer (the type that comes in a tube used with a caulk gun)
8. Apply a 2K epoxy primer on the seam sealer, bare metal and over lap a few inches on the old paint.
9. Apply a 2K polyurethane primer over the epoxy primer.

Hopefully, within a month or so, I'll start the Raptor Bed Liner process. But for now, how does my process look? Thanks again guys.
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Entire roof w cleaned seams.JPG

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 8:54 am
Personally I would strip the entire roof. That paint looks very old and deteriorated.

Media blasting works best as it will remove all exposed rust.
Blow the seams clear of any dust with compressed air.
Then use an automotive Wax and Grease Remove to wipe down the channels. Acetone leaves a film and is not a good choice.

Apply your seam sealer and let set the required time and then shoot two coats of a quality epoxy primer. This will be all you need prior to Rapture application.

Most epoxy primers have a few days where you can apply a top coat without sanding.

The best option is to shoot the epoxy primer, wait at least 24 hours and then shoot your Rapture liner.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 9:17 am
Just used some Raptor yesterday. That's almost exactly the process that I use. Since that is a roof the only thing I would add is keep your texture a little "finer" for ease of care. You can get a really nice almost grained texture by upping your Shutz gun pressure to 70 to 80 psi and standing back 2 to 3 feet from the surface.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:33 am
I've heard 3 different opinions on epoxy vs. polyurethane.

First is that 2k epoxy is the way to go 100%
Second is 2k poly is flexible and can deal with flex in the roof better than the 2K epoxy
Third is BOTH- 2k epoxy followed by 2k poly

Are both ok on bare metal?
Are both ok on old paint? Assuming I sand/prep the old paint but don't want to strip the entire roof.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 3:28 pm
I laid it out for you step by step. Darrel said that is how he does it as well.
Epoxy is the first thing I put on bare metal. It protects against rust, is flexible to move with the metal expanding from heat or contracting from the cold.

Our work is in the Projects Section for anyone to see - so I guess you must decide whether we are misleading you or telling you straight.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:05 pm
Good point. I get that the epoxy sticks to bare metal. Guess I'm trying to understand what sticks best to both
bare metal AND old (sanded) paint
as I can't see media blasting the entire roof down to bare metal.

Thanks for the recommendation on the Projects Section. I'll check that out.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2021 6:10 pm
Epoxy doesn't just "stick" it cuts off any future oxygen supply that can fuel rust and remains flexible in it's application. Man, a roof of all things....I'd get that paint off no matter what. The roof on those things takes a hammering from the sun, gets wet and freezes in the winter. Compromised remnants of paint is the last thing I'd want to be attaching my paint to there.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 2:07 pm
Taking paint off is addictive. I may end up doing the entire roof.

I'm going to do what you guys suggested. Next question is which type of gun. I'm thinking HVLP. Does that make sense?
Do you guys have a gun recommendation for a 1 time job? The Harbor Fr**ght gun has a lot of reviews, but I don't mind spending more.
Suggestions for what size tip for 2K epoxy? I'm thinking a 1.8mm or 2mm tip.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 2:18 pm
More importantly, what's your compressor situation like???? That might influence what gun you want/need. As for the Raptor just get the kit with the screw in shutz type gun included.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 3:08 pm
sand that old paint and bare steel with 80 grit,
clean everything well,
seam seal,
epoxy that whole roof,
let that epoxy flash for 1 hour,
hit that sucker with your raptor liner and done.

that top aint worth putting anymore time into.
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